Fridge won't work on 12 volts
My fridge works on AC and LPG but not on 12v.. I checked to see if it was getting power and it is. My suspicion is the control board, but I was hoping someone might be able offer the benefit of their experience.
Forum Discussion
- I only have 2-way fridge as well and run on propane with DC controller while traveling. As mentioned, it is generally safe although there are warnings about shutting off propane supply valve at gas stations. The (tiny) flame could ignite gas vapors or if there was a spill. I have never read of that problem, though.
Anyway, My 2-way Norcold would not run on propane, only AC. I was able to find a tech manual with a troubling-shooting flowchart to help diagnose. I was able to follow the tests and replace the appropriate part and now it works. - Looked up that brand, here is the max ratings for most of their 3-way models.
AC Heating Element -
2.7 amps at 110 Volts AC
2.9 amps at 120 Volts AC
DC Heating Element -
(fridge must ALREADY be cold, this is just keeping the temp constant)
13.8 amps at 12 Volts DC
16.1 amps at 14 Volts DC
It will kill a battery in 3-5 hours, it has to be connected to solar or an alternator to keep it running cross-country.
Yes, their numbers look ODD, usually you pull less amps with higher voltages, but thats what listed in their pdf.
BTW: when running on propane, it's about the same size flame as a butane cig. lighter, it really doesn't use much gas. Some home stove-top pilots lights use more gas than an RV fridge. SplinterFL wrote:
X2 make/model
Is it Ammonia or Compressor. (big power and sound difference)
You can usually look behind the outside vent and see how the fridge works. If the 12V lines are very small, like lamp cord, then it's a 2 way, (LP / 120v).
Usually if it's LP, it's strictly Ammonia, which means 12V isn't a cooling option as it consumes 300-400 watts of electric power. (thats 33amps@12v or 3amps@120v) 12volt cooling fridges usually have a small compressor or small thermal engine (essentially a large cooler, but no freezer).
Well in view of above it may only 120/LP I do not see a compressor in the back compartment.- Long story but it is a Nor-Cold. Will post model and serial later. I'd hate to drive cross country on propane keeping fridge cold.
- X2 make/model
Is it Ammonia or Compressor. (big power and sound difference)
You can usually look behind the outside vent and see how the fridge works. If the 12V lines are very small, like lamp cord, then it's a 2 way, (LP / 120v).
Usually if it's LP, it's strictly Ammonia, which means 12V isn't a cooling option as it consumes 300-400 watts of electric power. (thats 33amps@12v or 3amps@120v) 12volt cooling fridges usually have a small compressor or small thermal engine (essentially a large cooler, but no freezer). - 87bob, you might want to share what brand and model number refrigerator you are asking about. We have no idea what RV you have nor what refrigerator you have.
- First, are you positive that you have a 3 way fridge?
- Mine is only designed to work on LP or AC. I know of none that work on DC.
