Front Corner Separating

From what I've read, I plan to take a closer look at our situation to find out what might be going on. Thank you for your input and explanation. I'm going to try SidecarFlip's idea and use a non contact thermometer to see if there's "more than meets the eye."

dacharoo wrote:
It looks like yours is at that curve as well. I wonder if that’s a particular problem in that area. In my case, as far as I can see water had not gotten in yet. I’m trying Eternabond and Proflex RV to fill and seal the gap.

The "curve" is where my problem first became apparent. I've peeled back the interior finish board to expose some of the plywood substrate between the filon exterior and interior finish board at the front left side of the hybrid camper and found the plywood substrate to have delaminated from the level of the top of the bunk end frame all the down to the trailer frame, a sure sign of water infiltration.

Like I said, I recaulked, replaced the bunk bed seal and actually bent the bunk bed door inward a bit at the top to ensure a good compression seal with the new D bulb seal.

We've had some good rainstorms lately and looking at the interior, I cannot find any more water intrusion, but for me, the damage has already been done.

I tried what you're considering, sealant tape and caulking, but ultimately I believe the problem wasn't at the curve but just where the problem first was noticable. Now the entire front corner is a structural problem.

Good luck with yours!

I see FLIR optics now markets a nice and rather inexpensive thermal imaging camera for 350 bucks. A lot less that the one I have. I think I paid over a grand for mine 2 years ago.

Technology always gets cheaper as it advances.

Thank you for the tip. I have a noncontact thermometer and will give it a try. I've been through mold cleanup before, and you're correct that it's no fun.

dacharoo wrote:
It looks like yours is at that curve as well. I wonder if that’s a particular problem in that area. In my case, as far as I can see water had not gotten in yet. I’m trying Eternabond and Proflex RV to fill and seal the gap.

Are you sure? Easiest way to tell (without destructive disassembly), is, use a non contact IR thermometer (like HF sells for 35 bucks) and shoot a known area (that is not compromised, like mid unit, not by any windows or breaks in the Filon skin) and get a temperature measurement.

The, shoot the area in question (from the inside of the unit, not the outside) and compare temperatures. If the area in question shows a couple degrees higher than the other non suspect areas, you have water intrusion issues under the wallboard (on the inside). Water causes rot and soaked insulation which breeds mold and the mold is a living organism and as such, cause heat. If the area is warmer, it's rotting and soaked between the wallboard and the outer skin. Problem is, there is no way to dry it out, it's wet and dark in there, an ideal place to grow mold. The only cure will be to remove the inner wallboard and access the rotting / wet areas and rebuild them, which is a costly and time consuming job if done professionally and it you do it yourself, be prepared for a long, time consuming job.

Whatever you do, wear a mask when raking it apart. The mold in there is very hazardous to your health. You don't want to breathe the mold spores.

If I was ever buying a used unit (which I never have), I'd have my IR thermometer along. A thermal imagining camera works too but they are expensive.

It looks like yours is at that curve as well. I wonder if that’s a particular problem in that area. In my case, as far as I can see water had not gotten in yet. I’m trying Eternabond and Proflex RV to fill and seal the gap.

Something nasty is going on underneath. I can see the Filon lifting below the marker light, sure sign of frame rot. At some point that will be a big job, but I'd do it from the inside.

trailer (1 of 2)
That is what happened to mine, looked just like yours and its a KZ Coyote. The tape in the pic is covering the gap temporarily.

Mine is certainly due to water infiltration. Water could get in between the top of the bunk door frame and siding. The D seal was also in poor shape and the door didn't seal properly at the top area. With the wood damaged beneath the laminate, not much for the screws to "bite" into.

I believe the water infiltration has been fixed by recaulking and new seal, but the wood inside still needs to be fixed.

Here is the best way, or you can use butyl tape and Proflex RV caulk non-leveling.
Video

There are other videos if you search.

Thank you for joining in. Assuming what you're suggesting is the case here, and I get the corner back together, what should I use to put the corner trim back on? Is there a particular adhesive?