We have a 2011 Rockwood Roo and I recently noticed the right front corner is separating from the trim piece. It's happening about a third of the way up, where the corner curves. At the widest, the gap is 1/2". It appears the front and side were glued to the corner trim piece to hold everything together. Anyway, I'm trying to find out the best way to get this fixed, to prevent any leaks inside and keep it from separating any further. Thank you for any help. width=450

From the looks of it, I'd say you have had a leak and it's the result of water under the Filon and it's probably rotten too. How about a front picture as well? In as much as I don't have one, I'd suggest getting inside the unit and having a good look inside in that corner from the floor to the ceiling and see if there are any water stains on the wallboard inside and at the point where the floor meets the sidewall.

Agree that it appears that water has infiltrated that seam, probably from not re-sealing that seam or it's coming in from the roof seam.The wood in the filon has got soaked and swollen.Is your Roo a hybrid or a rear bed slide TT? That curved front looks different from a hybrid.

It's pretty easy to remove that corner piece, then take more photos of what you find. It should be rather easy to poke around and find any rot with the edges exposed.

SidecarFlip: Here's a photo from the front. I looked inside and saw no evidence of a water leak either from the roof or along the corner width=450Bikendan: It is a hybrid, with a flip down bed in front and back.Lynnmor: Before I start peeling the corner trim off, I am going to use a flexible inspection camera to try to get in a little closer -- just haven't got it connected yet.

dacharoo wrote:SidecarFlip: Here's a photo from the front. I looked inside and saw no evidence of a water leak either from the roof or along the corner width=450Bikendan: It is a hybrid, with a flip down bed in front and back.Lynnmor: Before I start peeling the corner trim off, I am going to use a flexible inspection camera to try to get in a little closer -- just haven't got it connected yet.I had a chance to look at a 'Roo' just like yours today, was in the driveway next to a friend's house. I'd say the water is coming down from the seam in the front. It'w water intrusion. The obvious sign will be if you pull the vinyl trim that is inside the channel (don't worry, it's replaceable and if you rip it, you can buy it by the roll online and it's cheap.. and look at the screw heads that secure the aluminum channel. If the heads are rusty, it's water intrusion. If some are and some aren't, run a few out (you'll need a square drive bit for your drill motor) and look at the threaded part. If the threads are rusty, that will confirm water intrusion. Another telling aspect is the color of the material under the Filon siding. It's dark brown, very dark, a sure sign of water logged wood that has swollen and pushed the trim piece away from the side Filon. The wood should be light brown, not dark brown.Kinda surprised it's not showing inside on the wallboard, but then, I don't know exactly how the trailer is built. If you can use an inspection cam, all good but if you cannot, an IR non contact digital thermometer used inside will tell you. Shoot the same side wall away from the corner and note the reading (don't matter what the outside temp is), and then shoot the suspect corner. If it's water intrusion (and I think it is), the corner in question will be a few degrees warmer than the wall away from the corner because the water causes mold and rot and they produce heat and the IR thermometer will detect that.If it is water intrusion, and you aren't real handy with woodworking and fiberglass, I would suggest having it professionally remediated. For one thing, most mold that grows in there is toxic and Filon is very hard to work with plus you'll need to replace some of the structure and it's no easy job.I liked it much better when RV builders clad RV's with aluminum sheet. Easier to deal with....For your sake I hope it isn't soaked, but I have a feeling it is.I've seen a lot of used campers where owners have attempted to cover up water intrusion, from painting interior wallboard to filling gaps with caulk but underneath mold and rot never sleeps.Wishing you good luck and a dry underlayment. Let us know what you find.

Front Corner Separating | Good Sam Community

dacharoo
Explorer
Oct 10, 2017
From what I've read, I plan to take a closer look at our situation to find out what might be going on. Thank you for your input and explanation. I'm going to try SidecarFlip's idea and use a non contact thermometer to see if there's "more than meets the eye."
gwh1bass
Explorer
Oct 09, 2017
dacharoo wrote:
It looks like yours is at that curve as well. I wonder if that’s a particular problem in that area. In my case, as far as I can see water had not gotten in yet. I’m trying Eternabond and Proflex RV to fill and seal the gap.

The "curve" is where my problem first became apparent. I've peeled back the interior finish board to expose some of the plywood substrate between the filon exterior and interior finish board at the front left side of the hybrid camper and found the plywood substrate to have delaminated from the level of the top of the bunk end frame all the down to the trailer frame, a sure sign of water infiltration.

Like I said, I recaulked, replaced the bunk bed seal and actually bent the bunk bed door inward a bit at the top to ensure a good compression seal with the new D bulb seal.

We've had some good rainstorms lately and looking at the interior, I cannot find any more water intrusion, but for me, the damage has already been done.

I tried what you're considering, sealant tape and caulking, but ultimately I believe the problem wasn't at the curve but just where the problem first was noticable. Now the entire front corner is a structural problem.

Good luck with yours!
SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Oct 09, 2017
I see FLIR optics now markets a nice and rather inexpensive thermal imaging camera for 350 bucks. A lot less that the one I have. I think I paid over a grand for mine 2 years ago.

Technology always gets cheaper as it advances.
dacharoo
Explorer
Oct 09, 2017
Thank you for the tip. I have a noncontact thermometer and will give it a try. I've been through mold cleanup before, and you're correct that it's no fun.
SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Oct 09, 2017
dacharoo wrote:
It looks like yours is at that curve as well. I wonder if that’s a particular problem in that area. In my case, as far as I can see water had not gotten in yet. I’m trying Eternabond and Proflex RV to fill and seal the gap.

Are you sure? Easiest way to tell (without destructive disassembly), is, use a non contact IR thermometer (like HF sells for 35 bucks) and shoot a known area (that is not compromised, like mid unit, not by any windows or breaks in the Filon skin) and get a temperature measurement.

The, shoot the area in question (from the inside of the unit, not the outside) and compare temperatures. If the area in question shows a couple degrees higher than the other non suspect areas, you have water intrusion issues under the wallboard (on the inside). Water causes rot and soaked insulation which breeds mold and the mold is a living organism and as such, cause heat. If the area is warmer, it's rotting and soaked between the wallboard and the outer skin. Problem is, there is no way to dry it out, it's wet and dark in there, an ideal place to grow mold. The only cure will be to remove the inner wallboard and access the rotting / wet areas and rebuild them, which is a costly and time consuming job if done professionally and it you do it yourself, be prepared for a long, time consuming job.

Whatever you do, wear a mask when raking it apart. The mold in there is very hazardous to your health. You don't want to breathe the mold spores.

If I was ever buying a used unit (which I never have), I'd have my IR thermometer along. A thermal imagining camera works too but they are expensive.
dacharoo
Explorer
Oct 09, 2017
It looks like yours is at that curve as well. I wonder if that’s a particular problem in that area. In my case, as far as I can see water had not gotten in yet. I’m trying Eternabond and Proflex RV to fill and seal the gap.
SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Oct 09, 2017
Something nasty is going on underneath. I can see the Filon lifting below the marker light, sure sign of frame rot. At some point that will be a big job, but I'd do it from the inside.
gwh1bass
Explorer
Oct 09, 2017
trailer (1 of 2)
That is what happened to mine, looked just like yours and its a KZ Coyote. The tape in the pic is covering the gap temporarily.

Mine is certainly due to water infiltration. Water could get in between the top of the bunk door frame and siding. The D seal was also in poor shape and the door didn't seal properly at the top area. With the wood damaged beneath the laminate, not much for the screws to "bite" into.

I believe the water infiltration has been fixed by recaulking and new seal, but the wood inside still needs to be fixed.
Lynnmor
Explorer
Aug 20, 2017
Here is the best way, or you can use butyl tape and Proflex RV caulk non-leveling.
Video

There are other videos if you search.
dacharoo
Explorer
Aug 20, 2017
Thank you for joining in. Assuming what you're suggesting is the case here, and I get the corner back together, what should I use to put the corner trim back on? Is there a particular adhesive?

Forum Discussion

Front Corner Separating

About Travel Trailer Group

Related Content

Roof Separation - Help!

Front cap separating from side of motorhome.

fuel water separator filter

Tent bunk separating from camper

5er wall separation