Vancil wrote:
I can't seem to access the sail switch without pulling the entire unit out.
It is highly unlikely that you have a bad sail switch. I wouldn't start troubleshooting on the least likely and most difficult part to access. Under no circumstance should you "shoot some WD40" into anything related to the furnace or any other flame producing appliance.
As others have said, make sure there is a supply of 12VDC available.
When you say the blower comes on are you talking about the blower in the ceiling ducts or the blower in the furnace itself?
Normal operation is to set the thermostat to "HEAT", then set the fan switch to "AUTO", then set the temperature setting high enough that heat will be called for.
When heat is called for the fan in the furnace will come on and operate for around 30 seconds. This is to clear any residual LP from the furnace. After that timeout the control board will operate the "spark" to light the heating flame. Once the flame is lit the furnace will continue to operate until the temp reaches the setting. Then the flame will go out. The blower will continue to operate for about 30 seconds to cool the unit and again clear any residual gas.
In a new unit it is possible that there is air in the gas line. If that is the case you may need to "cycle" the furnace several times to clear the air. Sometimes it will help to light the stove burners and the water heater for a few seconds to help get the air purged from the system.
A lot of the new thermostats will operate the air conditioner blower in addition to the furnace blower so be sure to check the furnace blower. It usually discharges thru vents in the floor or low on the wall. the relay you hear click is probably the thermostat relay. You may not be giving the furnace enough time to go thru the start up cycle. It doesn't instantly produce heat when you turn it on.
