Generator question

Just the lights? I would suggest skipping the generator, switching to inexpensive ebay LED lights and getting a small solar system. LEDs use so little that even in cloudy weather the panel could keep up.

For $100 my guess it has a loud 2-cycle engine and brush-style generator, neither of which will endear you to fellow campers or your on-board electronics.

When I bought my Honda 2000i years back there wasn't that much difference in price between the 1000 and 2000, and the 2000 has done double-duty at home during power outages. A less expensive alternative may be the Champion line of generators but I have no experience with them.

"...run the lights..." And water pump, control boards for the fridge and water heater, TV, radio, ect. Stuff adds up. If you have a standard Group 24 battery you may get 2 nights out of it, less if you run the furnace.

I would go with about a 2000 watt. This will allow you to use some other 120 volt items, like microwave and TV.
Verify your converter size. You could post make and model if you are unsure of the 120 volt maximum draw. I am guessing you have about a 45 amp converter.

Nope, it won't be strong enough, you need to spend $110.......just kidding :B

Here is a good informational site about trailer 12 Volt systems:12 volt side of life

Typically, folks buy generators to afford available power for 120V devices and to use their onboard converter to recharge the battery. If an Air Conditioner is part of the plan, you will need a fairly robust (3000W) generator. If you are just charging the battery back to a 90% State Of Charge, a smaller 1000W generator will get you by. If using the generator in a campground setting, an inverter-generator is what you need because they are less noisy and comply with Park and Forest regulations.

If you're using your battery, continually, until the lights no longer illuminate and charging to some unknown State Of Charge, you will be buying many batteries. You really need some type of meter in the system to know what is happening with your battery and to measure the SOC. This can be as simple as a plug-in meter in a DC cigar lighter receptacle or as thorough as a battery monitor like the Trimetric or Victron.

1200 watts to be sure it will handle your converter.

Depends on your converter size.

a 45A converter can draw upwards of 700W at full load (depleted battery plus any 12V items running).

I have a 60A converter and it is rated as 1000W draw.

With that said, as long as you are not planning to run a microwave, A/C, hair dryer, toaster oven or any other high wattage item you could possibly get away with 1000W gen.

However do keep in mind the gen rating often given is the SURGE rating. So, a 1000W advertised gen most likely will have a CONTINUOUS RUN rating of 800W which might be a bit light with a 45A converter..

The noise police should be along shortly.. But a $100 gen is not going to be something you are going to want to run near others and it is a hot button with avid boondockers..

Something else consider, if it a new $100 gen and is 1000W it my be a two cycle engine (like a weedeater or chain saw) and will require mixing two cycle oil with the gas..