It kills me when someone says "yeah, it'll tow that with NO problem" without ANY facts or figures to substantiate that claim. The first thing to do if you really want to know the limit of your TV is take it to a scale. Then subtract that from the GVWR on the door jamb sticker. Do not use the payload capacity stated on the door jamb sticker or published by the manufacturer. They are inflated. 1/2 ton trucks often do not have the capability they think it does. Case in point - our F250 says the payload capacity on the door jamb sticker is 2800 lbs but after going to a scale, it's only 1800 lbs. That's 1,000 lbs less. We'd have been screwed if we bought a trailer based on the sticker figure. You're going to find the same thing with a 1/2 ton or SUV.
I can also tell you that published factory dry tongue weights can be WAY under what they actually are. Another case in point - the actual dry tongue wt. on our trailer is almost twice what the factory dry wt. number is. Get your trailer to a scale as well. You should anyway to get your WDH dialed in the best.
If a person isn't really careful, they can get screwed on their actual TV payload capacity and then on the actual tongue weight. That can be a double hit.
The rear GAWR (gross axle weight rating) should also be looked at, esp. on an SUV as noted above. Max. hitch receiver ratings are important as already noted.
There's simply a lot of RVers that have overloaded TVs, from mild to grossly overloaded. I see them all the time in our cg. I try not to look anymore... Some don't know any better, but some just don't give a care and think they know better. I know we have it right and are safe on the road and that's all that matters to me.
