Got a $hitty problem to fix....

ZeeLett...Great topic, sorry for your problem and inconvenience, but did I ever learn something!

westend and, especially DiskDoctr, thanks for the links, particularly the video, Doc. At the end of it is shown an "emergency" twist-on temporary valve fix that I might just get for my "what if" bag.:)

I would start by looking carefully at the screws holding the bottom on. Mine looked like phillips screws, but on closer inspection they were square drive with a phillips on top of that. I bought a little packet of screwdriver bits that included a square drive from Walmart.

You may not have to pull the whole cover down, just pull enough screws out that you can pull it down enough to work on it. On mine I had to unbolt the two rear stabilizer jacks. There was also a propane line to the water heater that was punched through the bottom cover on one of the edges. I just used a razor knife and made a straight slit from the hole for the pipe to the edge of the cover so I could slide the cover off without disconnecting the pipe.

Once you can see the valve and the tank you can tilt the trailer using the tongue jack or leveling boards to make any remaining contents in the black tank run away from the valve.

Open the valve to let the residual drain into a bucket for about 10 minutes and then crawl under with I believe a 3/8 inch wrench and socket and pull the four bolts from the valve.

Flex the drain pipe enough to remove the valve and slide the new valve in it's place. Replace the 4 bolts and button the bottom back up.

If the bolt holes in the bottom don't line up, try using a piece of plywood and a floor jack to lift the center of the cover up as they can sag in the middle and pull away from the bolt holes.

Thanks everyone. I have an empty tank so I will try it at home. Will use a bucket and gloves just in case there is any residual. Hardest part will be removing screws and sealant from underbelly cover.

Its not that messy. I replaced mine. did it while camping at a full hookup site. prepped by filling/draining/refilling, then opening the black valve, and letting the running water rinse the tank out. then let it drip dry for an hour or so. told everyone in the trailer to stay out of the bathroom :), and just removed it, and replaced. No smell, no muss, no fuss. while I was at it, I replaced the smaller ones for my gray tanks too.

If you were to do it at home, without the luxury of a good cleanout first, then yes, it could be a little messy.

Here is a video for you.

Valve replacement and maintenance

Expect to get messy doing the switchout, though!

You just remove the four screws and slide the old one out and the new one in. Usually very easy as long as you have access.

Ok so without having looked under the belly seal, the valve body comes apart and I can just replace the a part by unscrewing. That seems like a quicker fix. Thanks westend!

For $16 it probably isn't worth your time to tap the shaft.

Valterra Bladex replacement body.