Cummins12V98 wrote:
blofgren wrote:
Grit dog wrote:
Good description whisky river!
That's about right except you left out the part where u can't see the fitting so you give a couple squirts of grease to find out it didn't take. Try it again, this time the grease glob falls on your shirt. While wiping it off and moving the shop light for a better look because u kno that d@mn fitting is right there, you smear some grease on the light bulb. It starts smoking.
Finally get that stupid needle in the hole but now the light bulb popped and you're in the dark, crawl out change the bulb cause hands are too greesy to use your cell phone flashlight, then forget how many squirts of grease may have made it in there!
In reality, on th new trucks, I wouldn't worry about it until you think you've got 10000 miles or more in 4wd. The front driveshaft is just an architectural feature unless running in 4x4.
LOL, thanks for the laughs, guys! One thing that has been forgotten is mumbling every cuss word known to man while you search around the garage for another grease gun accessory that you hope will work but deep down know it won't! :B
There is a video on the TDR where the guy uses a rigid extension off the grease gun with an angle bent into it then the pointed tip attached to it. Seems to work well. I said screw it a while back and just removed the driveline!
So, curious, is there something dramatically different about the 2013 - 2017 3500 DRW's front driveshaft layout vs. a 2013 - 2017 3500 SRW? I suppose it's possible things could be different for 3500's with the Aisin tranny.
I certainly don't have any of the hassles you guys are describing when I grease the front driveshaft on my 2016 3500 SRW (68RFE) which has the optional transfer case skid plate. I use a standard pistol grip grease gun with a Lincoln #5803 grease needle screwed into the end of a 12" flexible hose. I'm in and out in minute. FWIW, it's easy to verify a good grease needle connection because you can see the grease exit the back side of the shaft about 6 in. away.