Hauling a trailer with extended hitch?

TomG2 wrote:

bobndot wrote:
Use the calculator in the below link .


Hitch ext calculator

You might want to delete this post. If people actually read it, there will be 65 percent fewer questions and a whole lot less confusion on the forums.

They even have a neat chart!

I had the same issue. I researched forever. Don't use an hitch extension. The weld point is the weak link of the extensions. Intend find an extended shank. I found an extended weight distribution head/shank on etrailer for $130 and it works awesome.

From what I could tell- there is no standard shank length. Possibly due to this technicality the hitch ratings are not reduced (on paper) by using an extended shank?

None the less... the extra 8" that I ended up moving the ball was not noticeable when towing. I wish I'd done this years ago.

bobndot wrote:
Use the calculator in the below link .


Hitch ext calculator

You might want to delete this post. If people actually read it, there will be 65 percent fewer questions and a whole lot less confusion on the forums.

jaycocreek wrote:
I did not see the Q&A when I was using my cell phone.Thanks for the heads up as it did answer my question as this particular hitch does not need to be derated as some of the others.You get the whole 6K trailer rating and 600 pounds of tongue weight without having to be derated.

Instead, I would recommend looking at one of our extra or super extra long ball mounts like the Hidden Hitch Ball Mount, # 80232. This ball mount measures 16 inches from the center of the hitch pin hole to the center of the ball hole. This ball mount does not reduce the capacity of your hitch, but you will be limited to the 6,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 600 lbs tongue weight capacities.

Obviously, you found the answer that you were looking for. Somehow the Hidden Hitch company has figured out how to defy the laws of physics. I think they are wrong in giving the impression that their hitch extension does not change the loading on the receiver itself, like other brands do. 600 pounds acting through a 12 inch lever arm is different than through a 6 inch lever. Just about double, I suspect.

I was in a hitch shop a few years back getting some ideas on dumping the stock GM hitch for a decent class 5.

Saw a truck with a big TC on the back, towing a cargo trailer, slowly pulling in. Something looked really off kilter. I looked closer and the angle of the dangle on the hitch was hideously wrong.
This guy had about an 18 inch extension bar on his hitch to clear his TC. The weight of the cargo trailer tongue twisted his truck hitch downward so badly that it was pointing towards the ground on about a 45 degree angle. And the coupler point was off the ground maybe 3 inches.
His hitch was toast, wrecked from too much load on the extension bar. I'm surprised he actually drove the thing in like that.

The further out you extend the load, the more torque you apply to the hitch. I talked to the guy and funny coincidence, he was one of my customers from a year prior. I had built him a sunroom. He told me it was ok until he hit a big dip in the road. The extra weight from the load dipping down twisted his hitch like a pretzel.

I would never use one of those things unless you're carrying a bicycle rack or similar.

It doesn't matter if you use an extension or a longer ball mount.... If the ball is further away from the receiver, the loading is higher.

TomG2 wrote:
There are thirty plus questions and answers on your provided link which should answer your questions. Best case seems to be that hitch must be derated fifty percent. What is your hitch rating?

I did not see the Q&A when I was using my cell phone.Thanks for the heads up as it did answer my question as this particular hitch does not need to be derated as some of the others.You get the whole 6K trailer rating and 600 pounds of tongue weight without having to be derated.

Instead, I would recommend looking at one of our extra or super extra long ball mounts like the Hidden Hitch Ball Mount, # 80232. This ball mount measures 16 inches from the center of the hitch pin hole to the center of the ball hole. This ball mount does not reduce the capacity of your hitch, but you will be limited to the 6,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 600 lbs tongue weight capacities.

There are thirty plus questions and answers on your provided link which should answer your questions. Best case seems to be that hitch must be derated fifty percent. What is your hitch rating?

TomG2 wrote:
According to Reese, but what do they know, it is not a good idea. Some on here will say that ratings are just guidelines. Feeling lucky?

My 8" Reese extension says 300 pound tongue weight or 3500 pound trailer. Their 12" says to derate your hitch to 1/3 of the original. I just towed a 3600 pound trailer with 420 pounds of tongue weight for 70 miles without a problem. Feeling lucky? Go for it.

The confusion comes with extension, which I understand does need to be derated but the one I am looking at is called a ball mount,not extension,and I do not see anything about derating for this hitch(not extension)

The link..

https://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Hidden-Hitch/80232.html

Another way to solve the problem would be a removable tongue extension. Back in the late 70's I had an 11 ft camper on my truck and hauled a 4 horse trailer using a 40" extension which easily attached to the tongue. I hauled a lot of miles with it including a couple of trips of better than a 1000 mi and never had a problem