Hi, First post!I just purchased a 1995 fleetwood wilderness travel trailer and I am trying to get acquainted with it and work out the kinks.. didn't know if I had a fresh water tank until I looked under the sofa :-) Reading these forums as much as I can. So far I have cleaned the pissss outa it.. replaced all the marker lights.. 2 new tires.. replacing single 12v battery with 2 6v (500min) batteries. On order from Amazon.. Reese 800lb WD hitch.. 2 Camco wheel stops.. water regulator.. and Signature 8" memory foam queen mattress! Get's inspected this coming Tuesday and hope to be camping by next weekend.. fingers crossed!!Haven't figured out how to get the oven to come on or the fridge to run on propane.. stove top works. Have a couple questions...Should the fresh water fill have a plug of some sort? It's just a hole behind a door...andWhat is the 40 amp thing under the stove? A converter?Oh...Does anyone use the roof rack on these campers? Can't figure what I would store up there.. LolThanks in advance for any comments and/or suggestions....

I don't see where I can attach pics.. do I need to have x amount of posts?

Congrats on your new camper and welcome to the forums.This photo posting assistant (set up by Tech Forum Moderator 1492) should be helpful in posting photos. And photos will be helpful in getting answer to your questions.

Welcome to rv.net!Post make and model of the refer. There is many different models of refers so the model is important. Model number could be on the inside door frame or in the outside refer access.Yes, there should be a cap on the water fill. A rubber plug would work, but cap twists a bout 1/8-1/4 turn to hold in place.Most ovens have a Pilot. Turn the knob to pilot. Use long lighter to light the pilot. Some you can remove the shelf just above the burner and pilot location so you can see what is there and where to hold lighter. This is just to get familiar with the oven, not for use.The 40 amp unit should be the converter. There should be some 120 volt circuit breakers. Next to the breakers should be a small metal plate that covers the 12 volt DC fuses.

Start on line and search for the manual. Contact the manufacturers to see if they have one.You can also search for the appliance manuals on line.Enjoy the unit.

Thanks for the replies! Test photo...

HELLO! New to forums and new (to me) camper (1995)

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Jul 22, 2015
enblethen wrote:
Don't get too discouraged. Work through one problem at a time!
.

Yup, think of it as a puzzle or a challenge.

After you get it all working in the way you want and can best afford you will be able to be proud of yourself for working your way through the problem.

It's all part of RV'ing
budwich
Explorer
Jul 20, 2015
on the fridge "thing", with shore power (not propane), it should work... you should feel the "tower" getting warm. Is your trailer level? The trailer needs to be level for the fridge to "circulate" the "coolant" in the tube as there is no compressor... its kind of "thermo-gravity fed".
GMandJM
Explorer
Jul 20, 2015
Nice! Paddling sure can take the stress away. Looks like you 've found an ideal place for for it.

Sadly, our kayak hasn't been in the water for a couple months. Thanks for the reminder to do something about that.

Congrats on your new boat!
mdprowash
Explorer
Jul 20, 2015
Thanks GM...

Thanks for the welcome seaeagle2..

Decided to get away from it all and when the time comes.. add to my camping experience... bought a canoe today... ahhhhh :-)

Again... you guys are awesome
GMandJM
Explorer
Jul 19, 2015
Yup, that's been mentioned. OP noted that he is on household (presumably 110) power.
seaeagle2
Explorer
Jul 19, 2015
Welcome to the forum and the wonderful world of trailers, Unless you have a 30 amp 120 volt circuit (VERY UNLIKELY its a special plug ONLY used by RV's a 30 amp 240 volt DRYER outlet looks similar but is VERY DIFFERENT VOLTAGE) you are plugged into a 120v 15 or 20 amp circuit and using an adapter for your 30 amp cord. You don't have enough amps to properly run your AC. That's probably why it's acting weird, it just doesn't have enough power to operate properly and never will plugged into a 15 or 20 amp circuit.
GMandJM
Explorer
Jul 19, 2015
Here's a link to the thread with DownTheRoad's post.

You're right, it's no fun when things aren't working. But it'll all be worth it when you're chilling' at your campsite with a cold beverage and can say "Yeah, I know how to fix my stuff!"
mdprowash
Explorer
Jul 19, 2015
Haven't seen that thread by downtheraod.. nor can I find it. Point me to it? Thanks for the "n" code reset pdf... will try that

just getting a little frustrated... and disappointed with myself for not being more thorough when going over this camper... oh well..that was then this is now.. I'll get her working perfectly... for a few $$$ more than anticipated :-)
enblethen
Nomad
Jul 19, 2015
Don't get too discouraged. Work through one problem at a time!
In the outside refer access, clean each of the connectors on the circuit boards and ignitor.
GMandJM
Explorer
Jul 19, 2015
Don't know if you've already seen it, but DownTheRoad posted this on another thread: Norcold N Fault.

And if by "little sensor" you mean the thermister, then yes, those can be faulty. In our TT simply clipping it to a different "fin" seemed to help.

But if your N fault it still showing I doubt anything will help until you clear that.

The air conditioner may just be a matter of it needing more power than it's getting. A/c units need considerably more amps at startup than while just running. Any luck finding a the manual for it on line?

Sorry to hear your feeling discouraged. Hang in there.

Good job on the thermocouple, btw.

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