Help with a fixer upper!

Actually I was less concerned about the payload and more concerned about the axles and tires. I looked it up and they used 14" tires (no idea what load range), can't find anything for exact weight rating for the axles. If you put too much weight down using heavy lumber you could run the risk of blowouts or even axle failures. Just something to be aware of.

GVWR of 6965 would seem to point to 3500 lb axles (x2 = 7000) so you wouldn't want to exceed that weight.

Clayto1332 wrote:

coolmom42 wrote:
That is some pretty heavy lumber. Maybe consider selling some of it and buying some lighter weight stuff. What you have is way overkill for the applicaton.

What if I ran it lenthwise (going over the supports that go the width of the trailer) and then putting plywood on top of it? Would be a lot more lightweight. My only concern with this is there would be air pockets between the plywood and the waterproof lining that runs beneath the floor. Sorry to be a pain in the ass. Given the materials I have what would y'all do? Hold off and replace with the structural foam panels?

Go with a few 2x over the supports and then plywood. No need to worry about an air gap.

Removed - Double post.

I do love a build thread. Thanks for posting. I would use new wood and try some other stuff like foam where you can. The main point is that it needs to be fixed and it's not a huge trailer, so the weight you're adding is not a big deal unless you get excessive and somehow overload the axles.

That being said, one of the previous posters was right in that you shouldn't build it with wood like a deck with 2x4, 2x6, etc. The support is in the metal frame, and you will most likely be fine with thinner pieces and plywood.

When I built the cab over bed in my class C I looked at what they had used originally and I replicated it with some possible improvements. Mine turned out very strong. You could add a few lengthwise supports to fix any poorly designed flooring. Keep in mind that part of sagging is the difference between new and old material. They build it and it holds up because it's new which means it's underdesigned.

I cut styrofoam into my walls and filled any gaps with "great stuff". That would be a cheap and lightweight solution for airgaps, but really you should be concerned about water not air.

Thank you for the replies guys.

SO the foam that I intend on removing is 1 1/2" thick. If I replace it with 3/4" plywood and 3/4" hardwood, it'll be the same height as the old floor. My slide out is effed up. Basically one side where the kitchen sink is sags and drags the floor. This particular slide out has just the one track in the middle instead of one on each side so when I start tearing this thing apart hopefully I'll see what the culprit is there. I've seen videos where people make makeshift dollies with jacks on them to lift them up. I will make a new thread on it when I get to it.

My concern with the air pockets was the waterproof lining beneath the trailer. With there being gaps I would think it would flap around when pulling the trailer and damage it. If I do the plywood/hardwood route I won't have this problem. I guess I would just have to ensure I have the correct length of nail so it doesn't puncture my waterproofing.

BTW what is that stuff called? Can I kinda patch it with some flex tape or something? I don't want to cut corners... but replacing the whole thing seems like a lot of work and 80% or so of it seems just fine.

I am going to begin demoing the inside. I'll post pictures and anything else relating to this issue in this thread. I will also start another thread that documents my build as I go along. Having a really nice and unique camper has been a dream of ours for about a decade. We want to really deck it out and make it unique and beautiful. Thank you all for all of the helpful replies. I'll do my part in posting and documenting my problems and resolutions so it'll help someone else down the line.

Have fun with your build and keep us posted on the progress.

If the underbelly is black fabric then it is more than likely Darco, you can use Flex Mend to patch it.

Clayto1332 wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Please resize the photo--it makes it very hard to read the text.

Better?

Better--but still requires scrolling from side to side.

Clayto1332 wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Please resize the photo--it makes it very hard to read the text.

Better?

Pics are fine for me but I have a 32" monitor. Looks like a lot of work, but will be a great camper when you are done.

Gut the whole trailer before you add a board. You may find other water leakage locations. You could always rip your 2x4's into 2x2's for weight considerations.

westend wrote:
Gut the whole trailer before you add a board. You may find other water leakage locations.

Concur !

Anything LESS than replacing the entire floor and wood substructure is just a band aid !

Given the way most RV roof and walls are designed and built, leaks are WAY TOO COMMON ! The industry needs a better roof system and/or stop using wood in the floor. Sadly, neither are likely to happen.