Well I broke down for the first time and had a sealtech test on my 1 year, 3 month Jayco Jay Flight.SealTech test wasn't to bad at $115. What is expensive is the labor costs to repair all the leaks that it found. It found leaks on the front rubber roof to aluminum siding seam. 2 of the roof to floor corner seams, 7 clearance lights, a few on the roof, 2 cargo doors, and some I can't remember. Hours will be about 5.5 hours of labor plus caulk and shop supplies. Plus the SealTech test, it's about $700!The writer showed me some of the obvious leaks where there was cracks or a hole. I just can't believe there was so many in only a bit over a year.Plus my roof was black and they recommend cleaning it. Of course that goes with their hourly rate. They said the roof was unusually dirty and that it needs to be cleaned before additional damage. So with everything, I'm looking at a bill between $800 - $900!!Now these guys are not hoods, who are out to screw me. They have been very helpful and honest in the past. I guess I'm just shocked at how many leaks there are and how much it's going to cost.These are the times I miss my inexpensive to maintain, Pop Ups!

Can't you do the caulking???Did they give you a list of all the leaks????Just asking!

With all the damage water intrusion can cause....Why doesn't everyone get the seal test and fixes prior to delivery ??? Once you drive off, it's your maintenance problem even if the factory didn't do their job.I have not thought of this before, but maybe on my next one I will.

Poppy & Nana wrote:Can't you do the caulking???Did they give you a list of all the leaks????Just asking!It's been in the 30s and been raining for about 2 weeks. Kind of hard to do. Besides, they are the experts on where the different type caulks are needed, and the best application methods.With the Pop Ups, they were easy as it was all 100% silicone caulking with less seams. Easy to strip, clean, apply.

brownieab wrote:With all the damage water intrusion can cause....Why doesn't everyone get the seal test and fixes prior to delivery ??? Once you drive off, it's your maintenance problem even if the factory didn't do their job.I have not thought of this before, but maybe on my next one I will.That maybe a good idea. Not sure warranty would cover the LeakTech Test but it should cover the $600 in supplies and warranty (if these weren't caused by road trips).

Mike Up wrote:Plus my roof was black and they recommend cleaning it. Of course that goes with their hourly rate. They said the roof was unusually dirty and that it needs to be cleaned before additional damage. A dirty roof does not cause any damage. In fact, scrubbing a "rubber" roof hastens its demise, and using the wrong cleaners can irreparably damage a "rubber" roof. Rubber roofs were first introduced in commercial construction where they are never cleaned, and will last for many decades. In a RV application, they usually last 12 to 15 years. Why the difference? Rvers, for some unknown reason, are obsessed with cleaning their roof which destroys the protective shed UV membrane.Here is what happens. The rubber roof contains a white outer layer that is sacrificed when damaged by UV rays. That part of the material actually is shed from the membrane and remains on the roof itself further protecting the remaining sacrificial material. Washing the roof, removes this layer exposing the intact sacrificial membrane to UV damage. That is why the water will turn milky colored when washing the roof. You are actually removing part of the shed membrane only to expose the intact layer to more UV light and further damage.

High cost of caulk repairs | Good Sam Community

22 Replies

Snowman9000
Explorer
Nov 06, 2013
OP, the repair price doesn't seem too bad, considering all the work involved. Assuming they do it right.
westend
Explorer
Nov 06, 2013
crcr wrote:
B.O. Plenty wrote:
Seymore wrote:
Jayco has a 2 year bumper to bumper warrenty. Is this not covered by the warrenty?
Caulking is considered normal maintenance. I don't think any warranty will cover it. Just part of the cost of owning a RV.

B.O.

What particular caulk is best to use?
Most folks that seal the roof seams use Dicor self-leveling caulk. That is usually what was used at the factory. For vertical seams along the body, many prefer Dicor (the non-self leveling variety), Proflex RV, or a urethane sealant. I used Geocel 2300 Tripolymer, it is basically identical to Proflex, a polymer sealant. These polymer sealants are rated to 400% expansion, hence a good sealant for an RV that is moving about and flexing.

Mike Up wrote:
That's why I had the leaktech test, so I could find any leaks that weren't obvious or easily seen. I didn't want to wonder if I had any long lasting leaks that would rot and damage the camper.
An excellent piece of deduction acted upon, Mike. I don't know why more folks don't avail themselves of this simple test.

FWIW, I bought a TT that had known leaks and damage. I spent over six months and used some of the best sealants and methods available to get the TT to be leak-free. My first pressurized leak test turned up about two dozen pinhole type leaks.
None of the seams and joints that I had covered with Eternabond tape turned up a leak. That made me an instant believer in the tape. I'll be doing one of these leak tests at least twice a year. I have the gear so it is easy to do.
Mike_Up
Explorer
Nov 06, 2013
There was no water damage. The leaks were small and even though there were air leaks going out, not necessarily means water was going in.

Many of the leaks weren't visible to the eye, while there were others that were.

That's why I had the leaktech test, so I could find any leaks that weren't obvious or easily seen. I didn't want to wonder if I had any long lasting leaks that would rot and damage the camper. My last two shops did not offer a leaktech test so I wanted to take advantage that the new shop offered it. I really like the new camper and will probably keep it until the wheels fall off or we have no where to keep it.

Also as long as the area isn't wet all the time, the wood can dry without rotting.
michigansandzil
Explorer
Nov 06, 2013
We are having this done as well.

We have a very good friend that happens to work for an RV company as a repairman. He got up on the roof of our camper last month and told us we needed to have the entire thing scrapped and resealed. He said it's just maintenance and needs to be done every 3-4 years. We've had if for 3 seasons now so I guess it's time to get it done.

Funny thing is, if the RV company had suggested we get this done, I would have been convinced that they were looking for money; but considering it's a good friend of ours, I know he's being truthful.

We are very handy and do most work ourselves, but we decided to pay someone else to do this job. Don't have the time or desire to stay up on the roof for 8 hours scrapping off old caulk.
Bob_Landry
Explorer
Nov 05, 2013
daystrom wrote:
I'm convinced all the bouncing around these trailers do is the cause of sealant breakdown.

My co-worker has a 2004 KZ that sits at a permanent site and gets moved maybe four times a year. No leaks.

My 2012 Crossroads has maybe 3500 miles on it and I have had to fix numerous seals already.

The main cause of leaks is the insufficient amount of caulking applied when components are installed at the factory and the lack of proper surface preparation. Thank the design engineers and the bean counters for measuring down to the gram how much materials goes into the production of these trailers. If you pull an access door or a window, you will see what I'm talking about. There will be a small bead of caulk, probably not enough to squeeze between the door frame and the wall of the trailer. That's what I found on my Keystone.

An easy check for leaks and one that requires only a ladder to get to the high places, is to gently press the trailer wall close to the frame you are checking. If you see any separation between the wall and the window or door frame, you have a leak or will have one there very soon. Any dealer can tell you what type of sealant to use for various applications and it's not rocket science. it only needs a clean dry surface.
crcr
Explorer
Nov 05, 2013
B.O. Plenty wrote:
Seymore wrote:
Jayco has a 2 year bumper to bumper warrenty. Is this not covered by the warrenty?
Caulking is considered normal maintenance. I don't think any warranty will cover it. Just part of the cost of owning a RV.

B.O.

What particular caulk is best to use?
B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Nov 05, 2013
Seymore wrote:
Jayco has a 2 year bumper to bumper warrenty. Is this not covered by the warrenty?
Caulking is considered normal maintenance. I don't think any warranty will cover it. Just part of the cost of owning a RV.

B.O.
beemerphile1
Explorer
Nov 05, 2013
The majority of those leaks were probably there when it was sold new. My local dealer does a pressure test on every new RV they sell before it gets delivered. I was told it is amazing how many leaks are on a new RV.

If you pay for all the work out of your own pocket, $800 is wayyyy cheaper than $4,000 for a roof replacement.
Seymore
Explorer
Nov 05, 2013
Jayco has a 2 year bumper to bumper warrenty. Is this not covered by the warrenty?
JIMNLIN
Explorer III
Nov 03, 2013
How much water damage did the trailer have from all those leaks ??

If the trailer is just one year old you should still have a warranty.