hitch and sway bars

New technology is fun but if what you have does the job why change? With you trailer I'm going to guess you would have a loaded tongue weight in the 750# range. It's just a guess. So bars at least 800# would probably work but I would go for the 1000#.
I pulled TT's for a good 100,000 plus miles over the years with an EazLift chain type hitch with two friction type sway bars. It did a good job and was cheap. I just replaced another one, wore it out, with an EazLift Trekker only because it allowed me to get rid of two components and the end of the bars are grease free. So, moral of the story, get a newer hipper hitch if you want to or just use the one that works.

My 21FBS is a North Trail made by Heartland with a dry weight of approx. 4800#. Does that help with your recommendation on a new hitch system?

Bobbyg2013 wrote:
I pull a 2015 21FBS, overall 26' ...

Suggestions, comments.

A 21FBS WHAT? :h A lot of trailer manufacturers may use this model designation but I'd be surprised if any are really 26' coupler to bumper. It would be difficult to replace a WD system you already have when you have no idea what it is, the spring bar rating, nor I'm guessing the GVW of the trailer and it's gross tongue weight as it sits loaded and ready to camp ... nor could anyone here when we have no idea what trailer you have. Since selecting an appropriate weight distribution system with correctly rated spring bars (which BTW are spring bars, not sway control bars), it would be helpful to know just what trailer you do have. :h

Those heavy "sway" bars are probably the weight distribution bars. A sway bar for your setup would probably be a flat sliding mechanism that attaches to a small ball on the hitch head.
We have an Andersen hitch which is relatively light and very easy to use. It also has built in sway control. Used to have an EZ Lift system that I was not sorry to see go away.

Careful with "older hitch". Many years ago I found an entire hitch set up at a junk store. Bars were not marked with any markings. Turned out later that bars were 1400 pound. Way to big for our 20 foot trailer at 3,500 pounds. Showed the set up to couple rv places. All said, I could bend metal on the "A" frame because of to much stress.

Is there any markings on the bars? If you could find out the size of bars you might have better idea if they are alright to use for your set up.

should I invest in newer technology?

I won't answer that...I'm using a brake controller that we got for our 1984 trailer. Still works as designed (conducts elec to brakes). But I do have a new Prodigy behind the seat, just in case.

No. If it's working for you now, no need to change. FYI ... they are all heavy!

If you switch trailers, or tow vehicles, or if something goes wrong with the WD system, then change. Now if you're looking for something that's just a bit easier to hitch up ... well ... that might be a good enough reason to get a new one. But the principle of them all is to distribute the weight on the hitch ball forward to the front wheels. They all do this.