Hitch for a Pop Up Camper

I have a 2003 Silverado K1500 with tow package. I have a pop up and tow it using a 2 inch ball and standard 2x2 draw bar with the proper amount of drop to tow the trailer level. I also tow using tow/haul mode.

WD hitches are overkill on a pop up and should not be used as they can damage the lighter A frames on the front of most pop ups. I have a 2000 Fleetwood Sedona and the owners papers specifically warns against using a WDH.

I never had any problem with sway even when I pulled it with a 1991 Isuzu Trooper with 2.8 liter V6 that I used to own, but my trailer only has a 10 ft box and no slide out.

No need for a WDH, I pulled a heavy high wall camper (near 4,000# loaded) with my Expedition and I had absolutely NO issues. Just make sure you get the right amount of drop to keep the PUP level.

Thanks for all the info guys, I really appreciate it. I have a question about tow mirrors. Do you think I would need them? if so any recommendations? I would need to attached them to my factory mirrors.

Thanks.
J

I've never needed tow mirrors for my pop up or 28 ft TT, but I did recently buy a set of Cipa tow mirrors that slip over the OEM mirrors on my Silverado to see down the side of the TT a little better.

At discount body parts you can get towing mirrors for under $100 each. Once you drive with them you won’t ever want the stock small ones again.

I agree on no Weight Distributing Hitch (depending on weight) but I would invest in a Sway Control, once that baby starts swaying, it's too late (I can't express this enough)....a little extra safety precaution never hurts. A tip on backing up.....grab the bottom of the steering wheel and move the steering wheel in the direction you want the camper to go.....small movements will keep you out of trouble.....and don't be embarrassed about pulling forward for a second try....it takes practice.

I know it's not a Pop Up, but a couple of thousand pounds pulling side to side on the back of your truck could be a problem. once it happens, it's too late to say "I should of"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nd-hUX8memY

The issue of sway and weight relate to tongue weight of trailer and rating for vehicle. Search on this forum going back up to 10 years and you will get some great info especially about tongue weight. If the trailer has not been modified it is designed to be front heavy on purpose, never happened to me but I understand sway is usually caused by not enough tongue weight.
If the trailer is too light up front, no sway control is going to stop it. Check it out and please leave a comment to share what you learned for everyone else.

Tal/IL wrote:
You can probably just screw a ball in the step bumper and go!

I wouldn't do this, the nose of the pop up would be pointing up in the air which can unload weight off of the tongue and could be more prone to swaying. Also bumpers are usually rated for less weight that the receiver. You want to try and tow as level as possible or even having the nose down a little bit.

Don't think you will need a WDH but those pop ups with the front storage locker can add a lot of weight to the tongue.

You shouldn't need mirror extensions, I was able to see around my old pop up just fine with the stock mirrors on my 04 Silverado. At least you could wait until you find a pop up to decide on them.

Good luck on your hunt, there are a lot of things I miss about my pop up.

I have a 3500 lbs high wall pop-up. I use the receiver hitch that came with the factory tow package, no weight distribution hitch or anti-sway control. I have personally never had a problem that would warrant either of there.

The factory mirrors on my F-150 work fine for seeing to the back of the camper, I suspect the mirrors on your Chevy will be more than adequate.

Once you get the camper, there are some things that I would strongly recommend getting. The first are PUGS(www.popupgizmos.com) They are solar bunk end covers that block the direct heat from entering the bunk ends. The second is Reflectix ( Home Depot or Lowes). Cut the reflectix to fit inside the zippered windows of the bunk ends.

These two relatively cheap ideas will #1 keep the camper cooler inside during the hot summer days and warmer during the colder times of the year. We even cut some to go underneath the mattresses, #2 help block out some of the light and sound if you're a late sleeper.

Second thing is to look at replacing the factory tires. Most of them are **** and are marginal at best. We upgraded to Kuhmo Radial 857's that have a 99 mph speed rating (never tested it out) but more importantly it about doubled the weight capacity per tire. The added benefit is that they have stiffer sidewalls which makes the camper more of a joy to tow, especially in cross winds.

Third, invest in a set of camper stabilizers. We use Valterra #020106 Stabilizer and have had good results. We need to get a second one for the kids back bunk and possibly one for the slideout. The almost eliminate all the camper movement when you're walking around inside.

Fourth, since the fridge inside in barely big enough to hold more than a few items, consider investing in a really good ice chest. We have a Pelican which consistently ranks with a Yeti, but is about 1/2 the cost. There are several other brands that are similar such as RTIC, Orca, etc. But be warned, once you get them full of food and ice...they are HEAVY.