I have a 1989 Rockwood Pop up (tent) camper and I want to get it set up to put a battery on. It looks like there was a battery at one time but the wires are cut. I didnt trace them back yet to see for sure, but will be able to check that next weekend.Anyway, the wires that are there and cut are a black one, a white one, and then there is like a connector where a black one and green one are run into it together. (I hope that made sense). I should have taken a picture but wasnt thinking and I store it about 30 miles from home right now. Anyone know how to get this set up to run on a battery and if there is a suggestion on a solar charger what would I need? I don't want to spend a ton of money, but would really like the option of the lights on at night. There is a little dorm room electric refrigerator (former owner put that in) that would be nice to use. I am thinking the fridge would run down the battery too much tho maybe?And how long would I be able to get the furnace to run off a battery if I only used the furnace and lights? The fridge is a perk, so I can work around that, thats what coolers are for right? And the lights I do have lanterns, so that could be an optional thing too. But sometimes I like to camp late into the year and would like to maybe have the furnace be able to run. Sorry for the long post, but any help would be great!Thanks!

Spent any time reading solar posts on here? They're in the Tech Issues forum.one battery run furnace? 2011

Black is pos. White is neg. If there was a battery installed you might have an inverter on board already. That would be nice. Someone with a Rockwell will help you out there. If you are lucky you will be able to set it up and have it charge while you drive (through your wiring harness to the TV.You can run the furnace with one battery for a night or two as well as the lights. Not the fridge - that one or any other. A lot depends on battery size and condition. Look for a size 27 deep cycle with the highest amps you can get.If you can find a reasonably priced solar charger that actually recharges enough for daily use you are a fortunate owner. I'd love to get one but the one's with enough juice seem to be huge and expensive. I'll be following this thread to see if you come up with something.We can go a week in one place with two batteries using them for lights(sparingly) and water pump as well as charging small electronics.

The black wire should connect to the battery POSITIVE terminal. The white wire should connect to the battery NEGATIVE terminal. (Edited per RoyB's correction!)Before you connect the battery:0. UNPLUG/DISCONNECT THE TRAILER FROM ANY AND ALL ELECTRICAL SOURCES!!!1. Use a multimeter set to measure resistance (Ohms - the symbol looks like a horseshoe), set at the lowest value possible. 2. Put the two leads together to verify a ZERO or near zero reading. 3. Find a good point on the frame to touch the meter lead#1 to (it doesn't matter which one for this test). The frame point shouldn't have any paint, rust, mud; it should be nice clean metal. Hold it there during the following steps.4. Touch the meter lead#2 to the WHITE wire's conductor. The meter should read ZERO or pretty close to it.5. Touch the meter lead#2 to the BLACK wire's connector. The meter should read a really high value (or display no value at all).This should verify that which wire is connected to the trailer's frame and will connect to the negative battery terminal. If this is not the case, post back for further advice.Welcome to the forum!

Would you guys recheck your statement that the BLACK WIRE goes to NEGATIVE and the WHITE CABLE goes to POSITIVE.FOR RV HOOKUPs If the cables are BLACK AND WHITE then the BLACK CABLE GOES to the POSITIVE TERMINAL and the WhITE CABLE goes to the NEGATIVE TERMINAL.FOR AUTOMOTIVE HOOKUPs If the cable pair is RED AND BLACK then the RED CABLE goes to the POSITIVE TERMINAL and the BLACK CABLE goes to the NEGATIVE TERMINAL..The absolute best way to determine this is to grab the cable that is connected to the MARKED WORDs on the battery case than says "NEG" or the symbol "-" and this cable should always go to the trailer FRAME GROUND if it is a 12VDC battery on the RV trailer hookups.Maybe I missed something here about what is being talked about...Roy Ken

RoyB wrote:FOR RV HOOKUPs If the cables are BLACK AND WHITE then the BLACK CABLE GOES to the POSITIVE TERMINAL and the WhITE CABLE goes to the NEGATIVE TERMINAL.Yah, that's the way mine is.I recommend the fan test if you don't know which is which.

hooking up a battery | Good Sam Community

bondebond
Explorer
May 15, 2013
You can actually tear into the furnace quite a bit with the proper knowledge.

I just found the Atwood Mobile Service Training Manuals PDF when looking for something else. It covers ALL of the Atwood products and is quite technical but written such that regular folks can read it and understand.

The troubleshooting section for the furnaces is quite extensive. Between that and the exploded diagrams and parts lists, I think you have a clear path to disassemble and reassemble just about everything they sell.

Chances are, you have an Atwood 7900 Everest series furnace but you'll need to confirm.
scwerl3
Explorer
May 15, 2013
teejaywhy...can you sort of 'draw' a diagram or take a picture of the wiring for yours? That sounds like what I have on this camper, but its all cut off and I will have to connect to it again.

bondebond... the furnace will start, and maybe a half minute later the clicking will start... sometimes it lasts a few mintues, sometimes not. It doesnt really seem to have a rhyme or reason as to when it does it. To me it really sounds like its something bouncing around in there. Can I take things apart to see if there is something floating around in there and not have to worry about some spring flying out? I am thinking if I can take off a panel or something to get a look (and a picture) inside I can get some better awswers. Will things fit back together if I do this? or is there springs or pressure things that I would be able to get back into place.
Sorry if I ramble, my technical language for this probably makes things much more difficult to help you all understand.
teejaywhy
Explorer
May 13, 2013
On my Jayco, there are two wires on the + battery terminal. A black wire with an in-line 30A fuse that goes to the converter, and a green wire that goes to the breakaway switch for the brakes.
bondebond
Explorer
May 13, 2013
The change in volume of the sound is a bit puzzling but otherwise I would have said it is likely the electric piezo ignitor trying to light the gas.

During the same run cycle, does it happen only at the beginning and then stop and then come back? Can you pinpoint when it does and doesn't occur? I'm very curious to know if it starts during the beginning of the cycle or elsewhere in the same heating cycle. This may help indicate if it's the ignitor or something loose rattling around in there.
scwerl3
Explorer
May 13, 2013
bondebond wrote:
On the furnace, are you talking about a single click when it the furnace comes on or a repetitive clicking throughout the cycle? If it is the single click when it comes on, that is the sail switch activating and allowing the gas to flow to the ignitor. There is no problem nor no way that I am aware of to silence the clicking sound. It is part of the design.

Its a continuous clicking, and sometimes its louder than other times but its pretty loud either way.
bondebond
Explorer
May 13, 2013
On the furnace, are you talking about a single click when it the furnace comes on or a repetitive clicking throughout the cycle? If it is the single click when it comes on, that is the sail switch activating and allowing the gas to flow to the ignitor. There is no problem nor no way that I am aware of to silence the clicking sound. It is part of the design.

We generally camp with 120v power when it is cold enough to require the furnace. Recently, overnights were in the mid 30s. I had the furnace set as a backup to the two electric heaters in case they couldn't keep up. Combined with some upgraded weather stripping I installed, the furnace never came on and the heaters were significantly quieter than the furnace. I ran one heater from the onboard 120v service and the other heater through a heavy gauge extension cord from the power post.

I would highly recommend one or more electric heaters as it also saves on LP usage.

If you do not have 120v service, then you're looking at getting accustomed to the furnace or supplementing in some other fashion as you mentioned. I can't think of any other supplemental heating (not powered by 120v) that doesn't consume O2 or produce carbon dioxide/carbon monoxide (in a worst case scenario) and water vapor inside the living space. The combustion, even a catalytic process, happens inside the PUP with you.
scwerl3
Explorer
May 12, 2013
I think the model number is 1761. The camper box is about 9 feet and few inches long and about 6 feet 6 inches wide. I will get some pictures in the next week and post them here so you can see what I am working with.
Another thing is that the furnace as a 'click' that goes on when its running. I sounds like there is like a pebble in the fan or something and it's hard to sleep through. I dont really know much about doing stuff with the furnace, but if I can fix it myself I would rather do that with my dad's help. (He is a smart guy, just not sure on the procedure of this exact issue). I guess if I have to replace the furnace down the road I was thinking of one of those radiant catalytic style ones. I am just not sure how that all would be for use in a Pop Up where its all one area. I dont want to have the gas kill me or something.
Sorry I am so sketchy with this, I will get the info I can this week. And I really appreciate all your help!
scwerl3
Explorer
May 11, 2013
the converter box is located close to the floor but looks much different from what you have pictured. the model number (i think) is 1761 at least that is the number on the outside of it. When I get it popped up this next weekend I will take pictures of everything I can think of so I can help you help me with this. Much appreciate the help!
JLTN_James
Explorer
May 10, 2013
bondebond wrote:
Sorry I missed busting you, JLTN_James. 2oldman and RoyB are on the job.

I still gave you credit, kind of ;).
bondebond
Explorer
May 10, 2013
All good info. Sorry I missed busting you, JLTN_James. 2oldman and RoyB are on the job.

This one had me scratching my head until I got home last night to verify how mine was wired. It seems I'm switching too much between wiring the shop to suit and projects on the PUP to keep them straight from pure memory.

I stood for a couple of minutes in front of the new 120v 30 amp outlet I added in the shop for the PUP before I came to on the wiring. It's not the years...it's the miles.

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