Forum Discussion
45 Replies
- Old_DaysExplorer III also put a lot of non self leveling dicor under the renogy brackets and use 2 screws per bracket. We travel in Wyoming and Montana and it seems we always have very strong cross winds. Have seen semi trucks tipped over a few times.
- bpoundsNomad
FoldPV wrote:
BTW Can I post the photo of my neighbor's RV
You can post photos. There is a sticky around here somewhere that explains exactly how. I just use a link to my photos storage account elsewhere, but the forum does have a storage solution that works too.
On edit: here it is.
Forum hosting help and pics FAQ - FoldPVExplorer
bpounds wrote:
Zee brackets, set in a puddle of dicor, screwed to the roof
My neighbor set 1 PV over the roof in the same way of your photo, but a little higher.. I prefer your solution for aerodynamic traveling noise!
I think that you can also use Portable and Foldable Photovoltaic solution instead.
BTW Can I post the photo of my neighbor's RV - campiglooExplorerI mounted mine using the supplied Z brackets on a crowned roof. I couldn’t find well nuts and didn’t really like the looks of them anyway. I used the crimp style hollow wall anchors and lots of Dicor. That was 3 years ago and probably 35,000 miles and they’re still rock solid.
- HuntindogExplorerI have towed a few times in high wind. A 45 mph headwind + 65 mph towing speed in those conditions = 110 mph... Not sure any tape would work
- Yosemite_Sam1Explorer3M tape may not work on some RV roofs that have rubber coating that deteriorate over time or from extreme sun exposure.
Yup, my former RV's roof rubber coating peeled off when I use my pressure washer. - bpoundsNomadI might see using tape if you've got a solid material roof, like sheet metal or fiberglass. I think that is a small percentage of RV's, but maybe I'm wrong. Anyway, if you've got any kind of rolled out roof, like EPDM, using tape will only be as secure as the bond between the rubber roof and sub-roof. Which as we all know, from seeing bubbles and even sails when that bond fails, it is not a reliable bond over the entire surface.
Also don't think your only concern is the wind created by travel. You may see high lift forces any time the wind blows, while parked, as well as side winds while under way. - ajridingExplorer IIYes, all those holes. All roof penetration points are potential leak points.
The tape, if applied correctly, will not fly off.
It is the perception that the panels are getting hit with highway-speed winds at the leading edge, but this is not so. The actual turbulance on the roof does not work like that fortunately.
3M describes the VHB tape as a chemical bond, not just a really sticky tape. It works and works well.
I am not a big fan of more holes in the roof. I have done repairs on leaky roofs so that has swayed my opinions. It is miserable replacing rotten wood in a ceiling or roof.
Pet peeve is the RV factory using all 36 holes on a simple tiny roof vent and screwing in 36 screws into the roof just to hold the little thing on. Use 8 screws and some Lap sealant. Lap sealant is magic stuff. - babockExplorer
ajriding wrote:
You mean like the AC, the fridge vent, the TV antenna, the two or more flip up vents...those holes?
I have done 4 RVs with solar. None did I use screws, I just personally do not like more holes that can leak.
A few holes for the solar panels are nothing in comparison. And, you won't be having the solar panels fly off and embed themselves in somebody's windshield. - ajridingExplorer III have done 4 RVs with solar. None did I use screws, I just personally do not like more holes that can leak.
I have had great success with the 3M VHB tape.
The first projects I used more tape than necessary.
On the last project, which is on a steel roof, I assume galvanized, I used aluminum angle iron pieces cut from a long Homedepot piece. They were the width, about 18 inches, of the panel. I taped 4 inch pieces on the ends and stuck that to the roof. I attached the panels off the roof for cooling airflow and room for the cables. I left the sides completely open, the angle iron was only on the ends. *
You will want to screw the panels to the brackets before committing to sticking it down to ensure there are no gaps.
I used self-tapping screws to attach the panel to the bracket.
My panels are similar or exactly like the post before me. Be sure not to put the screws too high and run through the panel itself.
If your surfaces is metal, or gel coat fiberglass then the tape works fine. On rubber, then maybe thats why guys screw to the roof.
I wanted to mount them on a hinge and use a locking pin so I could rotate them up to face south. I had no intention of aiming them constantly, but just to get an angle to capture max sunlight from the south. I would have to park east-west facing one direction as I planned only one hinge - that's if I wanted morning to evening setup.
As is I mounted them flat, two 100 w panels and is enough. In Spring to Fall the batteries recharge by morning. I run a big electric chest compressor fridge, and minimal lights/charging.
The VHB tape will come off with a heat gun and some pulling, or using a scraper, but I have never had any issues with it coming un-stuck otherwise.
* If your roof is not completely flat, few are, then do not screw the panel to the angle iron (L-bracket) with all the screws, just one screw per side to hold it all, then when on the roof this allows for the bracket to lay flat, important for the tape to be perfectly flat, then screw the remaining screws in
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