How difficult to install new brake drums

Taffy.C wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
Good chance that all that is needed is an ADJUSTMENT of the brakes folks, not the replacement of the axles brakes and drums..

Definitely isn't the adjustment because I've checked that and its good on all 4 wheels. I'm rechecking the tow vehicle and controller first and will then check for voltage and buzz on the wheels with voltage applied. Worst case I figure I'm looking at replacing the brake assemblies and the posts in this thread have had a few good links. I also found a good vid on etrailer showing the replacement procedure.

CHECK THE WIRING!!!

Check EVERY WIRE NUT CONNECTION at each backing plate.

But do not "assume" that the backing plates and drums are at fault until you check the wiring!

Bet you will find corroded connections.

If you pull the breakaway pin, does ALL wheels LOCK UP?

If they do then it ISN'T the backing plate or drum or trailer wiring pointing back to a brake controller issue on your vehicle.

Your brake shoes WILL work fine up to and including the point there is no lining on them.. Did you check how much lining you have? You can use the thickness of a nickle to determine if you have enough lining. If lining is thicker than the nickle then you legally have enough lining.

Are you SURE that you have set/adjusted the brakes CORRECTLY?

If you are attempting to set them using the little "inspection" hole on the back of the backing plate, you just might be LOOSENING THEM.

Absolute best way to adjust them is to remove the drum, adjust them then slide drum on. Drum should go on with SOME light resistance.

With wheel jacked up a properly set drum brake SHOULD have a light "drag", you should be able to hear and feel that light drag. If you spin the wheel and it keeps on spinning for many rotations then you have to brakes set way too loose..

Pull a drum off, if it falls off in your hand, you are not setting them correctly. It SHOULD have SOME resistance, otherwise the shoes will never get enough contact pressure when braking.

Drums will have several markings for the diameter and the MAX diameter, you can also measure that but in reality, the max diameter rarely becomes a problem until you have a shop turn the surface down. Finding shops that turn rotors now days is very rare, very few places offer that service. Takes a brake drum lathe, very few auto parts stores have brake drum lathes or the people who know HOW to properly use one. So Drums are considered a consumable but once again, it can be measured and verified before throwing money at the problem.

Magnets should draw about 3A at 12V each, pull the breakaway pin and measure the current, should be about 11A-12A, less than 11A and you have a wiring or magnet problem.

Others on this forum WILL disagree and tell you to replace axles or change to insanely costly pad and rotors..

The system OBVIOUSLY worked well for you at one point in time, something has changed.

Drum brakes have been around since the invention of the automobile, trailer brakes are same principle and for the most part the same parts up until you get to the magnet.. And are pretty easy to troubleshoot and should not require entire replacement of the axles or changing to rotor..