Forum Discussion

rbpru's avatar
rbpru
Explorer II
Feb 04, 2014

How do you look for leaks?

Okay here is where the rubber meets the road.

I have been reading the comments on the merits of fiberglass or stick and tin with supporter and detractor on both sides; all agree water is bad.

Now as a new TT owner, how do I detect these water leaks before they spot the ceiling or drip down the walls? :(

If this snow ever goes away and I get a chance to examine the trailer what do I look for and where?

The dealer said I should crawl up on the roof and check out the various seals etc. this sounds good but is it really a good idea to put my 200 lb. frame on the trailer roof?

So again my question is what should I be looking for and where?
  • AirForceAngler wrote:
    Not all leaks will leave stains, either. Our first TT was a 2003 Coachmen. Within 3 years, it had 4 large rotten spots in the floor with no indications at all on the walls or ceiling. I knew about one the year before because of a soft spot by the door. I found the others after pulling up the carpet from the bedroom area. I was not a happy camper. I may try to to some kind of pressure test on our new Grey Wolf this summer using a shop vac or other pressure source. I saw somewhere on here where a guy did that and built his own pressure gauge using clear tubing and water (I forget what this was called).
    The DIY pressure gauge is called a manometer. I made this one with a piece of plywood, 1/2" acrylic tubing and colored the water with food coloring. One tube end is placed to the inside of the trailer and the other is allowed to vent to the atmosphere. Commercial Sealtech systems draw an inch of water column pressure. With a 1/2 hp furnace blower, I was able to get to 1.5" ->2" of water column.

  • I know you also don't want to overpressurize the trailer, too. That's why the example I saw used some kind of pressure gauge system.
  • You should be looking at the following:

    1) Make sure the roof is properly caulked and inspected at least 3x a year. Also, make sure the sides of the trailer are also caulked around the windows, lighting fixtures, etc.

    2) Anywhere inside of cabinets, that look strange. Discolored wallboard, etc.

    3) Any kind of soft spots in the walls and the floor. If you've got a spongy floor or wall, well then you've probably got a leak.

    WoodGlue
  • The pressure test is the sure way. It is not hard to do, nor too expensive to have done. I used an old furnace blower. If you search you can find other methods. Here is what I did:


    Here is what leaks look like:


    Clearance lights and clip lights are notorious for cause leaks, as our side edgings on roofs.

    Hope this helps. First test I did on my 2 year old trailer caused me to remove and recaulk the trailer and Eternabond the roof penetrations.
  • Get a moisture meter from a big box construction store harbor Freight and /or Amazon. This simple device measures moisture in walls ceilings etc.. less than 50 bucks will suit your needs. A handy tool if you are buying used.
  • Not all leaks will leave stains, either. Our first TT was a 2003 Coachmen. Within 3 years, it had 4 large rotten spots in the floor with no indications at all on the walls or ceiling. I knew about one the year before because of a soft spot by the door. I found the others after pulling up the carpet from the bedroom area. I was not a happy camper. I may try to to some kind of pressure test on our new Grey Wolf this summer using a shop vac or other pressure source. I saw somewhere on here where a guy did that and built his own pressure gauge using clear tubing and water (I forget what this was called).
  • Storing the trailer with one end lower (Not leveled) will help the water and snow slide easily of the roof.
    Yes you can go up on the roof and check all the seals and the rubber roof(I do it before the winter storage).
    I do not know of any method to detect a leak BEFORE you can see a stain.
    Good Luck
  • Not sure what type of TT you have but most are made to support a human on top to do maintenance. Get up there and check for old, cracking sealant around every single item that sticks through the roof and any seams. Water will get through the tiniest hole/crack/raised area. Assuming you have a roof AC, check you manual for tightening the bolts that secure it to the roof. You could also remove the inside liner for skylights and fans and check for dampness.

    You could have a dealer / service center do a leak test where they do a pressure test to check for leaks.
  • Well, you can have it pressure tested. In reality most of us just do a close inspection of all seams and openings and seal as necessary using the correct product for the job. Some have made their own seal test machine by using a big fan or leaf blower. Then start spraying every seam and opening using a mixture of liquid soap and water looking for bubbles.