I've had our 2011 Crossroads Zinger for close to three year now. When I first got it I went through everything and cleaned out the old caulking on all of the joints, and redid it. Then last summer I noticed that some of that caulking had started to crack and look pretty bad so I redid a bunch of it again. And now this summer/fall I've started to notice that once again, I can see several spots were the caulking around things has started to pull away and/or crack...and needs to be redone. I've always used the high quality (and expensive) RV caulk, and it just doesn't seem to last very long. Is that pretty normal, or am I doing it wrong??

Sure. You should inspect the roof, and really all seams three or four times a year. Wash the roof a couple times a year. Recaulk as necessary. Its part of what is necessary to keep an RV in good shape.What did you use last time on the seams?

Lol at washing the roof a few times a year. I believe you are on the right track img707. Annual inspection and repair of caulking is about what I do now. Like you, I usually find a spot or two that needs to be redone. Caulking is a terrible way to seal things, but it's what we've got so better to keep a close eye on it.

Any suggestions on what lap joint type calking works best. I've used Dicor, Silkaflex, and ProFlexRV....Proflex is by far the best, and holds up longer than the others. Is there something else I should try out?

imq707s wrote:Is there something else I should try out?Yes. Heng's rubber roof coating. Goes on like paint, seals everything. It was the only product that stopped my leaky skylight.I never remove old caulk.. just coat it with that stuff. Much easier and works like a charm.

Here is what I do First be sre you are NOT using silicone. I inspect my seams and roof twice a year. Any areas that are compromised the old sealant is removed and the area cleaned with alcohol. I use Dicor and Lexel. One is for the roof and the other is for the side seams. I meant to add. If you have any areas that are punctured use Eternabond roof repair tape. I had an area just to the rear of the front cap that got a branch in it. I covered it and the entire front seam with the repair tape.

How long should caulking hold up before redoing it?

donn0128
Explorer II
Sep 19, 2018
Sure. You should inspect the roof, and really all seams three or four times a year. Wash the roof a couple times a year. Recaulk as necessary. Its part of what is necessary to keep an RV in good shape.
What did you use last time on the seams?
camperdave
Explorer
Sep 19, 2018
Lol at washing the roof a few times a year.

I believe you are on the right track img707. Annual inspection and repair of caulking is about what I do now. Like you, I usually find a spot or two that needs to be redone.

Caulking is a terrible way to seal things, but it's what we've got so better to keep a close eye on it.
imq707s
Explorer
Sep 19, 2018
Any suggestions on what lap joint type calking works best. I've used Dicor, Silkaflex, and ProFlexRV....Proflex is by far the best, and holds up longer than the others.

Is there something else I should try out?
2oldman
Explorer II
Sep 19, 2018
imq707s wrote:
Is there something else I should try out?
Yes. Heng's rubber roof coating. Goes on like paint, seals everything. It was the only product that stopped my leaky skylight.

I never remove old caulk.. just coat it with that stuff. Much easier and works like a charm.
joelc
Explorer III
Sep 19, 2018
Here is what I do First be sre you are NOT using silicone. I inspect my seams and roof twice a year. Any areas that are compromised the old sealant is removed and the area cleaned with alcohol. I use Dicor and Lexel. One is for the roof and the other is for the side seams. I meant to add. If you have any areas that are punctured use Eternabond roof repair tape. I had an area just to the rear of the front cap that got a branch in it. I covered it and the entire front seam with the repair tape.
imq707s
Explorer
Sep 19, 2018
2oldman wrote:
imq707s wrote:
Is there something else I should try out?
Yes. Heng's rubber roof coating. Goes on like paint, seals everything. It was the only product that stopped my leaky skylight.

I never remove old caulk.. just coat it with that stuff. Much easier and works like a charm.

I'm having issues with the sealant on the side and horizontal joints......the self leveling Dicor roof sealent works great for the roof.

I'm looking for a better lap joint/non sag type of sealant.
2oldman
Explorer II
Sep 19, 2018
imq707s wrote:
I'm looking for a better lap joint/non sag type of sealant.
Ok.
donn0128
Explorer II
Sep 19, 2018
Dicor markets two versions. One for verticle and another for horizontal surfaces. I have tried ProFlex and it did not work for me. Redid with Dicor and it worked fine.
imq707s
Explorer
Sep 19, 2018
donn0128 wrote:
Dicor markets two versions. One for verticle and another for horizontal surfaces. I have tried ProFlex and it did not work for me. Redid with Dicor and it worked fine.

That's strange. I used the Dicor for horizontal (no sag) and it didn't last nearly bas long as the Proflex. Maybe I got some bad Dicor?

I did notice that the Dicor seemed to really pick up dust/dirt/mold badly...and turns dark after a year or so where the Proflex seems to still be white.
Community Alumni
Sep 19, 2018
On the roof I've switched over to Eternabond tape wherever I could. Do it right the first time and don't worry about it again.

Forum Discussion

How long should caulking hold up before redoing it?

About Travel Trailer Group

Related Content

Installing new vinyl trim inserts, caulk or no caulk?

RV Decor Redo

Anyone Completely Redo Their Interior?

Decor redo

Caulking