How to correct uneven "Bump Clearance" ?
I have a slight sag on the passenger side of our travel trailer. After extensive measurements, I find the bump clearance is actually less on the right side. Bump clearance is the space between the...
Forum Discussion
Just to clarify some things:
The actual paper brochure from purchase day indicates 6,820 unloaded weight, 7,855 GVWR, and 878 lbs cargo capacity. (the math doesn't work, but that is what's in the table in the brochure)
Our yellow empty weight sticker lists 6,631 unloaded weight and 7,660 GVWR. Forest River confirms the yellow sticker empty weight is specific to our model and options, but does not include battery or LP tanks.
I weighed it the day after the measurements above and on the way to the dealer that is helping, and weight of the trailer was 7,260. Food and clothing were absent, but it did include the sundried stuff that we carry for whatever reason. It had about 600 lbs on board, but certainly was not at GVWR nor overloaded per se.
Subtracting 120# for LP and battery, there is 509 lbs of "stuff" that we have added, thus the winter diet exercise. I have weighed everything I could and have been able to get within 30 lbs of empty weight -- everything from a slide topper, additional weight of higher load-range tires, down to throw rugs, bedding, and the 30#'s of Tupperware and knick-nacs DW has on board. So far I've reduced my stuff by 70 lbs, but any contribution from DW is clearly going to be a long and drawn-out negotiation.
You are absolutely correct that the trailer was under-axled at purchase and I should have known better. However, this was our very first trailer and I simply did not have a feel for the relativity of that number. All the dealers I have talked to have commented that many of the new trailers today come from the factory under-axled.
To that end, I have no expectation of financial help from the OEM's on whatever we need to do. I'm just looking for technical guidance and I expect to pay for whatever that is. I'm due for tires next spring, so change-out of axles/springs/tires/wheels is not completely out of the question, although hopefully I can find a cheaper fix.
This is a very inexpensive trailer, although exceptionally nice and relatively trouble-free and a unit we both truly enjoy. We've pulled it 14000 miles over 3 summers and almost all the problems encountered have been minor and things I have been able to fix.
Live and learn. In the meantime, we need to keep this trailer and somehow improve the suspension situation with a serious diet and whatever we need to do to keep the tires from rubbing.
The actual paper brochure from purchase day indicates 6,820 unloaded weight, 7,855 GVWR, and 878 lbs cargo capacity. (the math doesn't work, but that is what's in the table in the brochure)
Our yellow empty weight sticker lists 6,631 unloaded weight and 7,660 GVWR. Forest River confirms the yellow sticker empty weight is specific to our model and options, but does not include battery or LP tanks.
I weighed it the day after the measurements above and on the way to the dealer that is helping, and weight of the trailer was 7,260. Food and clothing were absent, but it did include the sundried stuff that we carry for whatever reason. It had about 600 lbs on board, but certainly was not at GVWR nor overloaded per se.
Subtracting 120# for LP and battery, there is 509 lbs of "stuff" that we have added, thus the winter diet exercise. I have weighed everything I could and have been able to get within 30 lbs of empty weight -- everything from a slide topper, additional weight of higher load-range tires, down to throw rugs, bedding, and the 30#'s of Tupperware and knick-nacs DW has on board. So far I've reduced my stuff by 70 lbs, but any contribution from DW is clearly going to be a long and drawn-out negotiation.
You are absolutely correct that the trailer was under-axled at purchase and I should have known better. However, this was our very first trailer and I simply did not have a feel for the relativity of that number. All the dealers I have talked to have commented that many of the new trailers today come from the factory under-axled.
To that end, I have no expectation of financial help from the OEM's on whatever we need to do. I'm just looking for technical guidance and I expect to pay for whatever that is. I'm due for tires next spring, so change-out of axles/springs/tires/wheels is not completely out of the question, although hopefully I can find a cheaper fix.
This is a very inexpensive trailer, although exceptionally nice and relatively trouble-free and a unit we both truly enjoy. We've pulled it 14000 miles over 3 summers and almost all the problems encountered have been minor and things I have been able to fix.
Live and learn. In the meantime, we need to keep this trailer and somehow improve the suspension situation with a serious diet and whatever we need to do to keep the tires from rubbing.
