Kayteg1 wrote:
"It never happen to me". :)
But the 12V supply wires are right on the back of the fridge next to 120V plug, so I think I can put a relay on main 12V wire -leaving the switch on panel ON all the time. That would make for 30 amp relay, but that's OK.
Exactly- The relay needs to rated high enough for when/if the 12v heater is engaged, even though your not planning on using the 12v heater and only powering boards. The switch triggers relay on/off. Alternately you could just use a 30 amp rated switch but using relay the trigger switch and wire can be small & mounted anywhere.
I used a 3way on/off/on. It selects from which 12v source, truck or camper, relay triggered.
Even though both switches on-its the source that controls. If turned to camper 12v-relay is always on, fridge responds as normal. If to truck it goes on/off with ignition. When power restored to board it starts&operates on last selected source, AC or DC. I've not tried gas-it might actually allow gas use and remotely turn on/off, hmmm..
The key is if your controls will remember selection when power removed, that should be the 1st thing to check before going thru effort.
