How to fit a Break Controller in Mercedes Sprinter Van

Bad choice. Time-delay controllers suck. The ones recommended use motion sensors to active a controlled brake signal and work extremely well. I've driven a lot in the UK, I would not have less than the best on those tight and crowded roads.

More thoughts on time delay controllers: http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=54794.0

Brian

:) , I already know the feeling of driving tons of tons without proper breaks. but I guess as Im getting older and hopefully wiser , I do not want to risk killing somebody for a price of a controller and couple of hours work . That Franklin is a heavy bugger and it takes little rain ( Im in the UK) to feel like on the ice rink . Anyway, I have decided to purchase Time delayed controller , and would like to thank everybody for their help . Thank you , Tomek

madej61 wrote:
As Im pulling the trailer only once a year( from one building site to another:) and short distances , wouldnt something cheaper like Time Delayed Curt Venturer or Tekonsha Power Trac work for me too?

Once a year and short distance? I'd skip the brakes. I've towed 5000lb cars on 2000lb flatbed trailers with no brakes. Just leave a little extra distance in front. Pretend you're driving in the snow.

As Im pulling the trailer only once a year( from one building site to another:) and short distances , wouldnt something cheaper like Time Delayed Curt Venturer or Tekonsha Power Trac work for me too?

Is the wiring like the one here? http://www.etrailer.com/faq-brakecontroller.aspx

brakes , damn you're right :)

brakes

Hi again, I have forgotten to add the pics of the breaks.
http://picasaweb.google.com/onski07 Tomek

Tekonsha Prodigy

Catalog with wiring instructions-page 485

I always recommend a Tekonsha Prodigy or P3, available on-line. I don't think they make a plug-in cable kit for your vehicle, but basically all you do is tap into a brake light circuit for the trigger, tap into battery power with a 10 gauge, 30 amp circuit with an auto-reset circuit breaker for main power, and run the output from the controller back to a plug you install on the rear bumper, again with a 10 gauge wire to carry the current. The plug will match the one on your trailer, usually a 6 conductor plug, and you add in the lighting circuits for brake lights and turn signals by tapping into those wires on the vehicle. We used to do this for all vehicles in the old days before they came pre-wired for trailers. Everything is available mail-order on line, just google Tekonsha to get started.

Brian