I've had my trailer 3 years now and (gasp) have not yet re-greased the bearings. Is there a step by step procedure on how to do this? It looks like the center of the hubs have grease zerks. I think they are ezlube axles, but not sure. Thanks

Personally, I prefer to hand pack the bearings instead of using the grease fitting. If you put too much grease in with a lube gun, you can blow out the seals.Here is a link on how to repack trailer wheel bearings. It's not too hard to do, but a little messy.Packing Trailer Bearings

Just get out your grease gun and give the zerks four pumps each. Turn your wheels 1/4 turn after each pump. Others will say to take the wheel off and do by hand. Whatever you choose. If by hand, after putting the wheel and large washer back on, tighten until wheel won't turn and then back it off to the last castaleted groove aligns with the spindal and install a new cotter of correct size and bend one tab over with a screw driver and hammer along with the cap. JMHO

Try this video from Dexter Axle:Dexter Video

I have a couple of local places that do them for 25 bucks a wheel. Both of these shops I have done business with for years and I trust them. Its a lot less messy!

How to Greese Bearings? | Good Sam Community

21 Replies

OhhWell
Explorer
May 13, 2014
I have never used the zerk to lube my axles. That may just be because I ended up selling and upgrading the stinking trailers too soon. Unless you know and have the same exact grease that is already in the bearings, do the first pack by hand. Also, make sure that Zerk is completely clean before pumping grease through it.
OhhWell
Explorer
May 13, 2014
Lynnmor wrote:
Turbo Diesel Dude wrote:
Just get out your grease gun and give the zerks four pumps each. (You have no idea how much grease is needed to fill the outer bearing.) Turn your wheels 1/4 turn after each pump. Others will say to take the wheel off and do by hand. Whatever you choose. If by hand, after putting the wheel and large washer back on, tighten until wheel won't turn (Right there you destroyed the bearings) and then back it off to the last castaleted groove aligns with the spindal (You may still have no bearing clearance) and install a new cotter of correct size and bend one tab over with a screw driver and hammer along with the cap. JMHO

Holy cow, how strong are your hands sir?????????? I cannot hand tighten the nut with enough force to destroy the bearings. I may be missing a small detail but what Turbo Diesel said about tightening the nut echoes what the Manual from Dexter said in my last Sunline. Maybe by saying "the wheel stops turning" he should have said Turning completely free?
rbpru
Explorer II
May 13, 2014
When I was a kid, (the local garages still did car repairs so you know it was a long time ago ;)) it watched a mechanic replace a front bearing on my dad’s car. I asked him how tight he made the castle nut.

His reply was, it depended on how soon he wanted the customer back.

If he wanted him back soon, he would snug it up and tighten one more flat; or he would snug it up and back off a flat and not see customer for several years. Even as a kid I could appreciate his humor.:B
DieselX
Explorer
May 13, 2014
I will never use the grease zerk again. 3 out of 4 brakes got grease contamination from just a few squirts of the hand held grease gun. Of course I didn't know it until about 1000 miles later.
BarneyS
Nomad
May 13, 2014
Take a look at this thread for complete details, including great pictures, of how to not only grease your wheel bearings but also how to adjust your brakes.
Barney
flash82
Explorer
May 13, 2014
From Dexter: (the 600- 8000lbs Axle Manual)

1.After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut
back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the
previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly
slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50
lbs.-ft. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.

2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not
rotate the hub.
3. Finger tighten the spindle nut until just snug.
4. Back the spindle nut out slightly until the first castellation
lines up with the cotter key hole and insert the cotter pin
Lynnmor
Explorer II
May 12, 2014
Turbo Diesel Dude wrote:
Just get out your grease gun and give the zerks four pumps each. (You have no idea how much grease is needed to fill the outer bearing.) Turn your wheels 1/4 turn after each pump. Others will say to take the wheel off and do by hand. Whatever you choose. If by hand, after putting the wheel and large washer back on, tighten until wheel won't turn (Right there you destroyed the bearings) and then back it off to the last castaleted groove aligns with the spindal (You may still have no bearing clearance) and install a new cotter of correct size and bend one tab over with a screw driver and hammer along with the cap. JMHO
TucsonJim
Explorer II
May 12, 2014
Lynnmor wrote:
Turbo Diesel Dude wrote:
Just get out your grease gun and give the zerks four pumps each. Turn your wheels 1/4 turn after each pump. Others will say to take the wheel off and do by hand. Whatever you choose. If by hand, after putting the wheel and large washer back on, tighten until wheel won't turn and then back it off to the last castaleted groove aligns with the spindal and install a new cotter of correct size and bend one tab over with a screw driver and hammer along with the cap. JMHO

This procedure will assure you that the bearings will not be properly greased and will be damaged by the over-tightening.

And how would you do it? That is the normal practice for cone bearings.
Dog_Folks
Explorer II
May 12, 2014
Lynnmor wrote:
Turbo Diesel Dude wrote:
Just get out your grease gun and give the zerks four pumps each. Turn your wheels 1/4 turn after each pump. Others will say to take the wheel off and do by hand. Whatever you choose. If by hand, after putting the wheel and large washer back on, tighten until wheel won't turn and then back it off to the last castaleted groove aligns with the spindal and install a new cotter of correct size and bend one tab over with a screw driver and hammer along with the cap. JMHO

This procedure will assure you that the bearings will not be properly greased and will be damaged by the over-tightening.

That's funny. This is the way bearings have been adjusted for more than 50 years. Maybe something is new I don't know about.
Lynnmor
Explorer II
May 12, 2014
Turbo Diesel Dude wrote:
Just get out your grease gun and give the zerks four pumps each. Turn your wheels 1/4 turn after each pump. Others will say to take the wheel off and do by hand. Whatever you choose. If by hand, after putting the wheel and large washer back on, tighten until wheel won't turn and then back it off to the last castaleted groove aligns with the spindal and install a new cotter of correct size and bend one tab over with a screw driver and hammer along with the cap. JMHO

This procedure will assure you that the bearings will not be properly greased and will be damaged by the over-tightening.

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How to Greese Bearings?

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