How to remove oxidation before waxing?
I bought a used trailer that has been kept outside and I would like to cleanup the fiberglass walls before storing it in my carport. What is the best way to do that? Thanks, Griz14
Forum Discussion
RinconVTR wrote:
How many RV'ers does it take to change a light bulb?
Man you guys make life difficult!
Just buy your favorite brand RV/Marine product like this;
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M4965-Marine-Fiberglass-Restoration/dp/B0000AY4YT/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436579149&sr=8-1&keywords=meguires+rv+wax+kit
AND TO ELIMINATE ANY HIGH EFFORT AND SAVE TIME...BUY ONE OF THESE;
http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-841475-10-Inch-Orbital-Polisher/dp/B00NARC9B8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1436579268&sr=8-6&keywords=10%22+buffer
You'll have your camper done in no time, and the buffer can be used o all your cars and trucks as well. These 8-12" orbitals WILL NOT burn your paint, no matter hard you try.
Not trying to pick an argument here, but my opinion of these random orbitals is they are only "slightly better" than hand polishing. And yes, I have one.
As you point out, they will not burn your paint. Which is both a blessing....and a curse. The reason they won't burn your paint is because "they are not doing much".
I do still use mine sometimes for final buffing on clear coats of the cars and trucks. I also let the beginners use it when they are learning how to use power to buff wax off. The clear coats on factory paint on cars is very thin indeed. The gel coat on these campers is a lot thicker than clear coat.
Your point is valid though that using a rotary buffer is an acquired skill, and if a person is stupid with it, you "can" screw up the finish.
