How To Set Up An F-250 For Towing?

ford truck guy wrote:

DallasSteve wrote:
I hope I can get some helpful tips on the trailer brakes.

The Jayco information says the trailer has "electric, self-adjusting brakes". I just confirmed that my F-250 does not have the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller. I bought a more basic F-250 XL. I'm happy that it has power windows and cruise control. Can someone explain how the trailer brakes work and what I should do if I don't have the ITBC? I'm reading some places say they won't work at all without the controller. One website says "the 7-pin trailer plugin controls the brake lights, it doesn't engage the trailer's brakes". So it sounds like I need to add a brake controller. Should I take it to Ford and pay extra to add that or just buy something off Amazon and add it myself? Does it require another wire back to the trailer or does it work off bluetooth? Help!

Not sure if a dealer can add the IBC after the fact, but that's Okay.... go get yourself a Prodigy P3 or similar .... That controller can be added by anyone who is the least bit handy..

The 7 pin does control the trailer brakes, once a brake controller is installed.... There is a BLUE wire that will run to the controller, when you step on the brakes, that wire will energize the trailer brake system.

here - click

In many cases an oem Ford IBC can be added, but requires a dealer flash to truck computer to activate. Ford's IBC is top of the heap IMHO. The Prod P3 is also a good choice. Been a while, since having to install an aftermarket, but Fords normally had a factory plug-in under/behind the dash. They supplied a factory harness, located in glove box in new trucks, that you wired to aftermarket brake controller, and then simply plugged into under dash plug...done. Still need to adjust gain etc.

Steve, take a look in glove box for a harness, could be there.

Jerry

ford truck guy wrote:

DallasSteve wrote:
I hope I can get some helpful tips on the trailer brakes.

The Jayco information says the trailer has "electric, self-adjusting brakes". I just confirmed that my F-250 does not have the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller. I bought a more basic F-250 XL. I'm happy that it has power windows and cruise control. Can someone explain how the trailer brakes work and what I should do if I don't have the ITBC? I'm reading some places say they won't work at all without the controller. One website says "the 7-pin trailer plugin controls the brake lights, it doesn't engage the trailer's brakes". So it sounds like I need to add a brake controller. Should I take it to Ford and pay extra to add that or just buy something off Amazon and add it myself? Does it require another wire back to the trailer or does it work off bluetooth? Help!

Not sure if a dealer can add the IBC after the fact, but that's Okay.... go get yourself a Prodigy P3 or similar .... That controller can be added by anyone who is the least bit handy..

The 7 pin does control the trailer brakes, once a brake controller is installed.... There is a BLUE wire that will run to the controller, when you step on the brakes, that wire will energize the trailer brake system.

here - click

I see one advertised by a Ford dealer on eBay. It looks like they can be added after purchase because they say that it will need to be activated at a Ford dealer. They charge $50 for activation. I also see some other eBay offers for less than $4100 but delivery takes too long. If I go that route does that mean I don't need to splice any wires? I know how to splice wires, but getting to them and doing it right is where it may become a problem for me. (this link looks ugly, but it seems to work)

eBay: Ford ITBC Module

op, I have two Prodigy P3's for sale. PM if interested. one has literally 8 trips on it. Brackets, instructions, wiring pigtail, all of it.

DallasSteve wrote:
I hope I can get some helpful tips on the trailer brakes.

The Jayco information says the trailer has "electric, self-adjusting brakes". I just confirmed that my F-250 does not have the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller. I bought a more basic F-250 XL. I'm happy that it has power windows and cruise control. Can someone explain how the trailer brakes work and what I should do if I don't have the ITBC? I'm reading some places say they won't work at all without the controller. One website says "the 7-pin trailer plugin controls the brake lights, it doesn't engage the trailer's brakes". So it sounds like I need to add a brake controller. Should I take it to Ford and pay extra to add that or just buy something off Amazon and add it myself? Does it require another wire back to the trailer or does it work off bluetooth? Help!

Not sure if a dealer can add the IBC after the fact, but that's Okay.... go get yourself a Prodigy P3 or similar .... That controller can be added by anyone who is the least bit handy..

The 7 pin does control the trailer brakes, once a brake controller is installed.... There is a BLUE wire that will run to the controller, when you step on the brakes, that wire will energize the trailer brake system.

here - click

I hope I can get some helpful tips on the trailer brakes.

The Jayco information says the trailer has "electric, self-adjusting brakes". I just confirmed that my F-250 does not have the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller. I bought a more basic F-250 XL. I'm happy that it has power windows and cruise control. Can someone explain how the trailer brakes work and what I should do if I don't have the ITBC? I'm reading some places say they won't work at all without the controller. One website says "the 7-pin trailer plugin controls the brake lights, it doesn't engage the trailer's brakes". So it sounds like I need to add a brake controller. Should I take it to Ford and pay extra to add that or just buy something off Amazon and add it myself? Does it require another wire back to the trailer or does it work off bluetooth? Help!

To add to what Jerry said, in the spirit of saving a few bucks potentially, if there’s a great chance you’re going with a wdh and don’t have other stuff to tow, then my recommendation of getting a nice adjustable conventional stinger would be a waste of money.
In that case maybe getting a hitch head for your preferred wdh would be better spent?

And used wdhs come up for sale all the time. And cheap. I’ve been trying to give a new (used 1 or 2 times) one away for half price, off n on for a couple years now.
Problem, I think, is a lot of folks have the 2.5 or 3” receivers now since all of the big 3 have had them as standard equipment on HD pickups for 10 years plus now.
Regardless used is a good option for a wdh or just a stinger.

Hey Steve, seems you have a good plan, to giver a try, without the WDH, a time or two for short runs. Worst case, you'll need to slow down, if trailer sways, or truck handling poorly. If worst case, then add WDH.

Like Grit mentioned, an adjustable stinger, to get tow height correct. For a TT, that should be level, or best, trailer front just slightly lower. It can be easier backing/maneuvering, without a WDH hooked up, especially if just practice parking. Also mentioned, get one that fits properly, no scaled down adapter in receiver.

Making sure the trailer tires are inflated correctly, will help a bunch, to control sway, especially not using a WDH. Normally with trailer OEM ST tires, this will be at full pressure, as marked on the tire sidewall, or front placard on trailer driver's side front.

Jerry

FWIW....in one of my iterations, I pulled a 34-ish foot long circa 9,000 # TT with a chevy 2500 diesel. All well within various ratings. I had (IIRC) circa 20% or so tongue weight and the truck didn't squat to any significant degree...and it pulled / stopped turned just fine.

Nevertheless, I went ahead and got a weight distributing hitch (Reese something or other 2.0). What that did was not only put a bit of weight on the front end, but it entirely eliminated any issues with my doors being blown off by passing semi's...instead of the truck or trailer being pushed, it was like the entire 50+ foot long setup was being pushed as a unit, no swing in between trailer and truck. Without the WDH, it was not a problem, but with the WDH, I could essentially ignore the overtaking semi's...that was reason enough for the WDH for me.

...and FWIW, a good number of those semi's were on I35E/W, US 287, and I-40.

Boomerweps wrote:
The trailer mounted rear camera is a very nice thing to have.
But, remember the acronym GOAL. Get Out And Look. Nothing is better than your eyes looking around for potential problems.
A weigh distributing hitch is a nice thing but not usually needed using a Ford F250 heavy duty truck until the weights hit over 12,000#. The F150 specs require them at 500# tongue weight or 5000# tow weigh, this colors many opinions.If you don’t get/use a WDH, air bags or similar May be needed to lessen rear squat.

Thank you very much for that response. I will GOAL, especially at the beginning, and I will combine that with my backup camera to learn how much room I have, and I will watch the trees overhead. As for the weight distributing hitch, my plan was/is to start without it and see how it tows. In some previous threads I had read some people said that it may not be needed with an F-250. Still my trailer is pretty long, 36'4" according to Jayco, so it might need one. My first trip or two will be under 3 hours so it gives me a "shakedown cruise". Your comments reassure me that is a good plan.

The trailer mounted rear camera is a very nice thing to have.
But, remember the acronym GOAL. Get Out And Look. Nothing is better than your eyes looking around for potential problems.
A weigh distributing hitch is a nice thing but not usually needed using a Ford F250 heavy duty truck until the weights hit over 12,000#. The F150 specs require them at 500# tongue weight or 5000# tow weigh, this colors many opinions.If you don’t get/use a WDH, air bags or similar May be needed to lessen rear squat.