I have 5 days to get an old truck camper

^ Take the above with a grain of salt or 3.
On paper, yes he's right. Real world, you have the same truck as a 3500 minus a couple leaf springs and a sticker giving you a greater gvw based on vehicle classifications, not capability. You actually have the same chassis as a dually minus springs and 2 extra tires.
Any reasonable sized/weight camper can be hauled competently on your truck. If you keep the camper under 3klbs your stock suspension will hold it up, but you may still want to stiffen up the rear end for peace of mind and addl weight from your trailer.

A 3/4 ton truck doesn't even have sufficient payload capacity for a hard side truck camper, much less a trailer with tongue weight, too.

The GVWR of your truck is something like 8800 pounds. It weighs 7100 pounds empty if it's a shortbox like mine. That leaves 1700 pounds of payload. If it's a longbox, subtract another 200 pounds. Then you have to subtract all the weight of passengers and any gear that is in the truck itself. What is left is, at best, enough payload to pull a modestly sized trailer, but certainly none left for a truck camper.

If you want to pull a trailer AND carry a camper, you probably need a DRW truck. That said, the newer 1 ton SRWs have 18" wheels and tires, higher GVWRs, and perhaps enough payload to squeek by with a small truck camper and a modest trailer.

I actually don't know why modern 3/4 ton trucks are so popular. They have virtually no payload, not even for the pin weight of a small 5th wheel.

I would look at the TC POPUP models... They are very lite weight not having the hard roof sides to deal with.


Google Image

Going with the full size TC campers will most often require dually setup and a very heavy duty truck to safely haul the camper...

The POPUP models usually don't have any over hang on the rear making it easier to pull a utility trailer for your tools etc...

Roy Ken

you need to keep weight in mind. Tounge weight of trailer plus the weight of the camper. Do you know the GVWR and the GCVWR on your truck? Look at the door or door post on the driver's side of the truck, then go get a full tank of gas and go weight your truck. Then you can figure out how much weight you can safely carry

You will need some accessories. You will need tiedowns. (Torklift or Happyjack or a belly bar.) - unless the camper comes with Stable lift jacks - then the stable lift will serve as both jacks and tie downs.) Make sure you get spring loaded turnbuckles. You will want a rubber mat in your bed to keep the camper from sliding.

If you are to be fiscally conservative, you probably will be looking at older units with manual jacks - possibly even the older 3 point jacks. Make sure you learn about those.

Other ways to save on money and weight. Older and/or smaller units come with limited bath/shower/toilet facilities, some with none at all. Also some have small or no holding tanks. Make sure you understand what that means.

As you are towing, unless you want to put a bunch of money into hitch extensions, get a TC model that has little to no overhang. (this will also shrink the weight and price)

To keep the weight down - look at popup models. Make sure the hasps to lock the roof down are in good condition.

To keep weight and price down - skip the roof A/C

thats about all I can think of before my morning coffee.

search all craigs list every state, there out there just siting under a tarp waiting to be used again.

Some states are title and license, some aren't.
How to make it lightweight? Lol. Buy a lightweight one, which should t be an issue given your budget and shortbed model.
Pay attention to rear overhang since your towing... On a budget. Big hitches get expensive, but short enough camper with little/no drop down in back can typically get by with shorter hitch extensions depending on the trailer.
I wouldn't even consider one that doesn't have 4 permanently attached working jacks.
Should be on Craigslist not here right now!