Forum Discussion

ElementZero's avatar
ElementZero
Explorer
May 23, 2015

Installing a new receiver on back of trailer for bike rack

After reading enough posts about not using the trailers "bumper" to install a bike rack, I decided I needed to weld or bolt-on a receiver hitch to the frame. I want to be able to carry two bike minimum (although four would be nice but it all I can do it two, so be it).

Anyways so since I don't know how to weld, I'm going the bolt on route. I see numerous bolt on trailer hitches that are made for trailers i.e. this. But the problem is I don't have any open holes in the frame (thank goodness? hahaha) where I can mount such a hitch. Only thing I can think of would be to remove the bolts that hold on the regular "bumper" and then use the same holes to mount both the hitch and the "bumper" OR drill holes into the frame.

Is it safe to do either? Would the latter void the frame warranty (I'm thinking yes)?

My father-in-law suggested even getting some kind of receiver that I could bolt into the frame piece that the bumper is welded onto - perhaps drilling into that or some kinda ubolt there?

Any thoughts or experience?

10 Replies

  • hbillsmith's avatar
    hbillsmith
    Explorer
    May 23, 2015
    I went thru this same excersize with my previous 2013 TT and I found the perfect Curt bolt on hitch that would fit the frame. I called CW to get setup for a buy with install and they discouraged me from doing a bolt on and suggested I use the machine shop that they sent all their RV jobs to. So I called them and they said don't buy any receiver to just bring it in and they would custom fabricaste what I needed. That turned out to be the best idea of all. They frame welded a 500# capable receiver and while they were at it they added and welded flatiron to further strengthen the bumper. It cost me $350 and that covered everything and I had a much better end product.
  • IAMICHABOD's avatar
    IAMICHABOD
    Explorer II
    May 23, 2015
    Stormpeakco wrote:
    Ich, is your above anti-rattle (less than satisfactory) experience only with trailer towing or both towing and bike rack mounting too? thanks.


    It is both towing and the bike rack.This thing is simply amazing.
  • Stormpeakco's avatar
    Stormpeakco
    Explorer
    May 23, 2015
    Ich, is your above anti-rattle (less than satisfactory) experience only with trailer towing or both towing and bike rack mounting too? thanks.
  • IAMICHABOD's avatar
    IAMICHABOD
    Explorer II
    May 23, 2015
    Some really good advice here, What some of the problem is that they bounce a lot and if the rack is not tight in the receiver that added movement only amplifies that bounce.

    I have tried almost every Anti Rattle device on the market, most have been no good or so complicated and cumbersome that they are useless. I have a whole tool box full of them.

    Until I found the one at Hitch Rider. This will keep everything tight.

    Their Hitch Vice is the best and easiest one I have come across and it really works.
  • Dick_B's avatar
    Dick_B
    Explorer
    May 23, 2015
    We use bunge cords to reduce bounce but we carry two adult bikes on the front of the tow vehicle.
  • Stormpeakco's avatar
    Stormpeakco
    Explorer
    May 23, 2015
    I agree. Reducing the "bucking" is key and so the more rigid the entire system (receiver-hitch connection ("anti-rattle"), extension, rack AND bikes on the rack) the better.

    We have a 1 OR 2 bike 1UpUsa rack that functions w/ either 1.25" or 2" receiver (to switch between vehicles or on back of TT), the weight of each bike is supported by the inflated bike tires-wheels and an additional unit for 3 bikes is possible.

    These are rigidly built US made aluminum (nearly overkill)...check reviews, videos. I have a lot of confidence in putting several thousand $ of bike material (road, mtb, fat-bike) on ours (with a full time rear view camera to view traffic but also glance at the tops of the bikes).
  • azrving's avatar
    azrving
    Explorer
    May 23, 2015
    Which ever way you end up doing it, an important part is eliminating bounce. The actual weight isn't that great but the bouncing will end up cracking metal and welds. I used a stainless steel loop with ss bolts and lock nuts that go through the rear wall and through a wall stud. I was able to access the inside behind a cupboard to install washers and a lock nut. I use bungee cords to hold the bikes toward the rig. On the other end of the bikes I bungee to the ladder. Again, it takes the bounce out of it. They dont need to be sucked tight to the rig, just enough to not let them "whip" or bounce.

    Just an example

    Looking at the picture again. imagine the slop that occurs when you place the bike rack into the receiver. When you are all done lift up on the bikes and receiver and you will see how much slop there is and this is what will happen as you hit bumps. It's amplified the further away from the axle and the longer the trailer is.
  • PaulJ2's avatar
    PaulJ2
    Explorer
    May 23, 2015
    In my case I purchased a receiver hitch made to attach up to the bottom of that square tube bumper by four long bolts into a heavy duty plate on top.
    HOWEVER: I first fully welded the square tube bumper onto the frame--not just tack welded like from the factory. No problem carrying two bikes for ten years so far.
  • ElementZero's avatar
    ElementZero
    Explorer
    May 23, 2015
    Actually as I review that link in the previous post I notice there is one picture where they show that they attached it exactly as I mentioned with installing into the same holes that the "bumper" uses.


    Again I just want to see if anybody has any thoughts on that. I don't see how that would be a problem but maybe someone can speak from experience :)

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