Interested in any solar advice
First of all, I oughta say I've learned a lot from this website and am really into it. Well right now I'm looking for some information on how to go solar from someone semi ignorant about the subject. ...
Forum Discussion
First step is to decide what you are trying to accomplish.
If you have shorepower or are running a generator, it quite frankly is a waste of time. You will never make up the cost and the extra drag going down the road will negate any eco-street cred for going green.
If you want to run the air/con or other heavy loads...you need such a massive system, it's a waste of time and as a newbie, don't even try to go there until you have much more experience with a simpler system.
What solar is good for is to handle minor loads, mostly 12v but some short term 120v can be done when away from a grid connection.
For starters, decide how many days you will be away from shore power, then estimate the time each electrical device you have will be running (lights, fridge, water pump, tv, etc... check thoroughly as there may be some you don't think of off the top of your head.)
Learn the relationship between Watts, Volts, Amps and Amp-Hr. Then using the estimated duration check the appliance info tag and calculate Amp-Hr needs. For solar output calculate the Amp-Hr output (generally assume 4-5hr at the rated wattage).
For the batteries assuming lead-acid, figure about 30% of the rated amp-hr are usable. It's not good for the batteries to go below 50% charge and good chance you never get above 80% while off grid.
Inverter: Figure the max load. If it has a motor, assume 3 times the amp or watt on the tag as they list the continuous load but motors typically take 2-3 times that amount for a second or two to get started. Also watch the rating. They often show a short term peak output, so a 2000w inverter may only be able to handle that for a few seconds but it can handle 1400w continously.
With this info organized into a spreadsheet, you can dial in pretty close.
If you have shorepower or are running a generator, it quite frankly is a waste of time. You will never make up the cost and the extra drag going down the road will negate any eco-street cred for going green.
If you want to run the air/con or other heavy loads...you need such a massive system, it's a waste of time and as a newbie, don't even try to go there until you have much more experience with a simpler system.
What solar is good for is to handle minor loads, mostly 12v but some short term 120v can be done when away from a grid connection.
For starters, decide how many days you will be away from shore power, then estimate the time each electrical device you have will be running (lights, fridge, water pump, tv, etc... check thoroughly as there may be some you don't think of off the top of your head.)
Learn the relationship between Watts, Volts, Amps and Amp-Hr. Then using the estimated duration check the appliance info tag and calculate Amp-Hr needs. For solar output calculate the Amp-Hr output (generally assume 4-5hr at the rated wattage).
For the batteries assuming lead-acid, figure about 30% of the rated amp-hr are usable. It's not good for the batteries to go below 50% charge and good chance you never get above 80% while off grid.
Inverter: Figure the max load. If it has a motor, assume 3 times the amp or watt on the tag as they list the continuous load but motors typically take 2-3 times that amount for a second or two to get started. Also watch the rating. They often show a short term peak output, so a 2000w inverter may only be able to handle that for a few seconds but it can handle 1400w continously.
With this info organized into a spreadsheet, you can dial in pretty close.
