Interior cabinet shelves and drawer ideas

Thank you all, great ideas! Keep'm coming.

I've seen a lot of good info over here on shelf ideas

What I did for the same problems in my TC was go get the nice 1/8" Revolution Ply stuff at Lowes.

I also got some 1x2 lumber.

I made 9 new shelves for the big empty boxes in the kitchen and forward hanging lockers. All these shelves maybe weight 8lbs max all together.

I used Gorrila Glue to mount the supports I cut out of 1x1 stock (the 1x2's cut down the center) and glued everything in place.

Each shelf has a lip, 4 supporting stringers below it and weighs absolutely nothing. No hardware, no screws, no plastic.

Tip: if your screws are coming out of your door hinges where they attach to the cabinet frames, squirt a little gorilla glue in the holes and put the screws back in. They'll never bother you again.

Here is LINK to the shelf supports I would use. There are two reasons, one the shelf is locked down to the clip and t, the shelf is held steady and cannot move from side to side.

If the 1/4" hole would be exposed outside the cabinet, cut a piece of 1/4" mdf to fit the side of the cabinet and glue it to the cabinet then drill a hole just deep enough for the pin on the clip.

Several ways-we have added several shelves in our camper. Several cabinets did not have any shelves. Also
added some some drawers but obviously a bit more involved. As far as shelves depends on area and shelving
used. But simplest Ive added directly to 1/8" paneling using push in clips drilling 1/4" holes. Advantage of these
is easily moved (though haven't since installed). In the cabinets at bed I used 1x1 cleats as placement fixed, couldn't see need to adjust.


These 2 over cab kitchen had no shelves, big open boxes.


Clip, when shelves sets on them keeps pushed into wall.


Should be a variety of brackets etc at local hwd. Wire shelving can be lighter but I used pine boards. Wrapped with contact paper. On the large corner cab used 1/4" dowels to piece together for depth, loose one side to get in/out.

I think the key is the side brackets or boards need to be supported at the bottom of the compartment as well. That along with a tight fit of the shelf and plenty of screws in the brackets, and the shelves aren’t going anywhere.

This is one inside compartment. These are plastic adjustable height shelf brackets. I use at least two on each side. The shelves I added are plywood covered up with woodgrain contact paper. For some reason, there was only one shelf (the bottom one) in that large compartment. It made separating clothes etc impossible. It was one large stack, before. I added 3 shelves in that one cabinet. I bought brackets like these. I can’t remember where I got them. They come in different lengths, but you can cut them to fit your cabinet. http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/InsideRV/AdjustablePlasticShelfStrips/SH-SB218-BRN



This is an outside storage compartment. Basically, it’s plywood sides go all of the way to the floor of the compartment which adds a divider to put the grill above and random smaller stuff below. I need to put edging on the plywood to dress it up, but it works fine and withstood years so far.



This is the factory pull out pantry. They build a frame that all of the shelves attached to. It’s supported by drawer brackets at the very top and bottom.