The short answer is you’ll be fine so long as your not planning to cook a Thanksgiving Day turkey - lol!, but when selecting separate components here’s a few finer points worth considering:
The microwave wattage should be your starting point, followed by inverter wattage, followed by microwave cooking duty cycle, followed by battery capacity and type, followed by battery cables - in more or less this approx order..
1) When choosing a microwave go by the total wattage not the cooking wattage …Assuming no other concurrent AC loads (incl, refer and converter-charger), your aforementioned microwave should do fine, but surge wattage (start-up, sudden wattage) will be somewhat higher than the overall wattage spec (this, because microwaves are capacitive loads)…Thus, extra inverter headroom is well in order…
2) Not all ‘same wattage’ inverters are equivalent - a reputable inverter spec’s should include surge rating, and duration at surge in seconds…When solving for ‘reactive loads’ (meaning other than resistive - e.g. capacitive or inductive, microwaves and motors), high surge wattage and of longer surge duration is best…Also pure sine wave is more efficient and better for motors (meaning less energy converted into waste heat), You get what you pay for…
3) Quite naturally, cooking duty-cycle plays a BIG role, but we use our similar sized Microwave and 2000w PSW Inverter quite regularly, and have done so with both 200a/hr LiFePo4 and our previous 215a/hr (107a/hr net to 50% SOC) golf-cart batteries - has always worked great…
4) Lithium are best, because voltage sag during appliance start-up is of little if any consequence, plus a far deeper depth of discharge - but as stated, I’ve run roughly the same microwave using just two golf-cart batteries for several years…
5) To satisfy initial surge current requirements, and to prevent inverter ‘low voltage’ supply bottlenecks (alarms or shutdowns…) make sure not to scrimp on cables from battery to inverter - AWG size and shorter lengths are critical (due to cable resistance)…
Note too that specified cable length means ‘round trip’ distance from battery to inverter and return back to battery - closer to battery is better…
I would only add that as part of your install, you should have or install a good (lithium and other type compatible) shunt-based SOC (state of charge) meter so you can monitor SOC in %, amps consumed, voltage and amperage while under a load…
Hope this helps,
3 tons
