jayco vs keystone vs gulf stream
We are in the market of upgrading from a Coleman Westlake to a hard-side trailer. After doing our homework, we have narrowed it down to: 1. JayFlight 24FBS, 2. Keystone Cougar 24SABWE or 3. GulfStream...
Forum Discussion
Any hardsided RV will be fine with temps in the 40's. In fact I have a oil filled electric radiator that we use to heat our trailer most of the time. Propane is too expensive to run for heat when electric is free.
With the roof vents in all the RVs you are going to be losing a LOT of your cooled air from your AC. If buying new, try to get a 15K AC unit instead of the standard 13.5K. Getting a spot in the shade will help keep temps down. Keeping your blinds closed on the sunny side will help. A piece of foam in the roof vents to help slow air loss will also help.
In all honesty, most "regular" trailers are all the same. The insulation in the roof and walls are limited by size. Some add a layer of foil insulation to help. Some have enclosed underbellies that will help to hold temps a little better. All of them are woefully under insulated and have large gaps in insulation due to roof vents and no overhang of the rafters. 40 degrees to 100 degrees should be no problem for most hardsided trailers.
In terms of WEIGHT you really need to be more concerned with PAYLOAD. An SUV has a lot of weight which reduces your payload. You will run out of payload long before you run out of GCWR. There are many, many, many, many threads of payload and measuring payload and not exceeding payload and on and on here. I would encourage you to read a couple of those and make sure you understand your actual available payload when loaded for camping and make sure you understand the difference between a "dry" tongue weight and a "loaded" tongue weight.
If you get the numbers right you will have a much better towing experience and you won't find yourself with buyers remorse if you bought too big a trailer and can't tow it comfortably.
If you find the right trailer for your family and your truck you will hopefully have a blast camping! Hope to see you out there soon!
With the roof vents in all the RVs you are going to be losing a LOT of your cooled air from your AC. If buying new, try to get a 15K AC unit instead of the standard 13.5K. Getting a spot in the shade will help keep temps down. Keeping your blinds closed on the sunny side will help. A piece of foam in the roof vents to help slow air loss will also help.
In all honesty, most "regular" trailers are all the same. The insulation in the roof and walls are limited by size. Some add a layer of foil insulation to help. Some have enclosed underbellies that will help to hold temps a little better. All of them are woefully under insulated and have large gaps in insulation due to roof vents and no overhang of the rafters. 40 degrees to 100 degrees should be no problem for most hardsided trailers.
In terms of WEIGHT you really need to be more concerned with PAYLOAD. An SUV has a lot of weight which reduces your payload. You will run out of payload long before you run out of GCWR. There are many, many, many, many threads of payload and measuring payload and not exceeding payload and on and on here. I would encourage you to read a couple of those and make sure you understand your actual available payload when loaded for camping and make sure you understand the difference between a "dry" tongue weight and a "loaded" tongue weight.
If you get the numbers right you will have a much better towing experience and you won't find yourself with buyers remorse if you bought too big a trailer and can't tow it comfortably.
If you find the right trailer for your family and your truck you will hopefully have a blast camping! Hope to see you out there soon!
