Keeping Diesel Engine Warm

Air filter should not be a problem at all.
The first thin I would check after the battery and starter, would be glow plugs. Any diesel should start easily down to around 25 degrees.

4x4ord wrote:
You shouldn't need much of a battery to start an engine when the temperature is in the 40s or 50s.

You would think so. When on the block heater it starts right up.

You shouldn't need much of a battery to start an engine when the temperature is in the 40s or 50s.

4x4ord wrote:
If your truck has two new batteries you're likely wasting your money changing them. Your better off spending the money on having a diesel mechanic troubleshoot your problem. There are many things it could be from air in fuel: bad injectors: starter: low compression.... possibly bad batteries or maybe battery connections or cables.....

750CCA recommended for my 2005. "i want to test them with a battery analyzer"

If your truck has two new batteries you're likely wasting your money changing them. Your better off spending the money on having a diesel mechanic troubleshoot your problem. There are many things it could be from air in fuel: bad injectors: starter: low compression.... possibly bad batteries or maybe battery connections or cables.....

If they are that new You could always try and exchange them at Walmart. I'm sure you don't have the receipt but you never know they may just look at the date.650 ca is what the dealer told me was the replacement for my Dodge about six months ago. I bought some Die Hard batteries so far so good.

deltabravo wrote:

Ditto on both of the above.

Does it crank over fast and just not start, or does it crank slower like the batteries have low voltage?

I've dumped the K&N. I've taken the heater apart and it was squeaky clean.

The batteries although 13 months old are cheap Wallyworld issue but are 650CCA.

When the engine is cold it cranks slow so i want to test them with a battery analyzer and change them to Interstate 800CCA from Costco $94.

And there is your problem. K&N is the absolute worst air filter there is. Even lightly over oiling it will kill your grid heater in a hurry. Not to mention loss of fuel economy and allowing more dirt into the motor. Your just asking for problems. Take it out, go buy a quality paper filter, clean the grid heater and see what happens.

BTW, I would dump the K&N. They are notoriously bad on turbo diesels and may actually be the problem. The oil in them fouls the MAP sensor so I would get some sensor cleaner and spray said sensor down.

Ditto on both of the above.

Does it crank over fast and just not start, or does it crank slower like the batteries have low voltage?

Picinisco wrote:

zcookiemonstar wrote:
Do you only have this problem when boondocking? Are you disconnecting your camper from the truck? If not this could just be a case of you draining your truck batteries with the campers power usage. Does your truck start fine at home without plugging in the heater?

No
Yes
No

I have thrown away the K&N filter and gone back to a paper filter. I have pullet out the intake heater to clean it but it is spotless.

The person i bought the truck from last february had just replaced both batteries, both marked 11/17 so i did not suspect them however on further examiation i find that they are 650cca batteries so suspect that they are a little weak, when cold, at getting the engine spinning to 200rpm, so when i get the $350 plus to replace them I will.

Before you toss $350 at batteries that you likely don't need. (It's possible, but you can get them load tested for free)
Have your injectors tested. You have the classic symptoms of injectors that return too much fuel at cranking rpms, not allowing high enough pressure to fire.
Iirc, your miles and lack of secondary fuel filtration make the injectors even more suspect.
Don't throw away money because you're in denial it could be a more expensive issue.
On the upside, compared to other diesels, Cummins injectors are the least costly and the easiest to replace. And don't buy reman injectors unless you like to gamble with questionable odds, unless you're planning on selling the truck the next day. Then it will s uck for the new owner...

Picinisco wrote:

rhagfo wrote:
Last time I replaceed my batteries cost was less than $200 OEM MOPAR, this was in 2012 still cranking hard.

Each?

Interstate have 750cca for $170, each

No that was out the door for a pair. The were $99 ea and the dealership had a 10% off coupon, $189!