Kitchen table to heavy

Funny, I was thinking of the same winter project today.

Here is what I have. Its so heavy it takes two to set it down.

I replaced my cheapie laminate table with a solid oak one I built (slightly oversize also). I wasn't concerned about weight, just wanted a more rich look to match the rest of the trailers trim. It was in my Jayco TT and our Colorado 5er.

Daryll

The stock table on my Fun Finder was made of MDF covered in laminate -- 30 pounds! I made my own out of half inch baltic birch plywood -- 10 pounds, and a lot better looking. I finished it with natural stain and wipe-on poly.

Our table is part of the dinette bed at night, will look at the thickens of this and see if can make another one in the spring as our is heavy also and goes up and down each day.

Believe they have the table and countertops prefabbed and then just install. Ours in Rocky is MDF covered with the same as the countertops. DH is a wonderful woodworker - furniture quality - and I'd love for him to make one to match our cherry cabinets. However, RC has become an addiction and the woodworking - other than rebuilding unplanned landings - has gone by the wayside. Think I'll keep what we've got.

I certainly understand how R/C can get in the way of other hobbies. I chose to combine both passions.

P.S dont tell my wife the planes "sleep" on the dinette table when she isn't there.
http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww178/FDav8r/RC%20flying/IMG-20120822-00395.jpg

Daryll

Camping is Camping, RC is RC, and never the twain shall meet.....with any luck at all. This could also be changed to Quilting is Quilting and never.....
Although...on our yearly trek to FL, DH has a favorite RC shop with the best fuel prices anywhere, so he invests in a case and it lasts him all year +. I have a couple of quilt shops and contribute to their economy, but that's as far as it goes. NO FLYING OR QUILTING ON CAMPING TRIPS!!!

The "light duty" factory table in our terry dakota is hollow (like a door). Basically, 1/4 inch ply with laminate of your choice on top and 1/4 ply on the bottom. The width can be what you want. They then "frame" (fill out) the edge with solid spruce / pine that is grooved to receive a vinyl edge trim all the way around to "hide" the "sandwich". For "strength", they "strategically" glue in cross members in the interior to shore up the table and receive things like the tube holders for the legs. Overall, it is certainly not meant to hold a 200 lb plus person lying on it across a 36-48 in gap of the seating area. Ours suffered from this causing it to "fracture" in a few places which I then replaced broken components and reglued. To improve strength, I built a small support frame / stand that fits under the table when it is deployed in the "bed position" to shore up the middle of the table towards the open end / side.... ie the table when deployed in bed position is supported on three sides, the fourth has little or no support which is weak (poor) for heavy "clients"... :-)

Note, our table has collapsible "scissor" legs which provide no support when "bedded". On a "pipe" leg table, there might be "short pipes" that can be used to provide better support in bed position.

There is "lightweight" MDF available. I've used it. The regular stuff weighs in excess of 90 lb for a 49x97" sheet (roughly 3 lb /sq.ft.) The light stuff is about 40% lighter.

A strong and lightweight solution is a "torsion box" Clicky for procedure for a heavy-duty version If you don't feel up to making one, you can get a hollow core door with the eggcrate interior and laminate that up. Though you'd need to beef up your attachment points on the bottom.

If you decide to make a torsion box, you can get "door skin" plywood and build your box with that. Then laminate with HPDL. The only caveat is that you have a thin surface layer so don't be dropping heavy sharp objects on it.