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RamblinAnne's avatar
RamblinAnne
Explorer
May 29, 2017

Levelers/Chocks/Blocks/Jacks

I'm looking for an easy solution to my leveling issues. I just moved into my TC full time (so happy!) and I boondock most nights so I move around a lot. The electric jacks are great but they seem like a bit of a hassle to set up for just one night (especially since I'm usually trying to be inconspicuous).

I see the Andersen Levelers and they look great. Does anyone have any experience? Are they superior to standard blocks? Worth the extra cash?

How many in total do I really need? This is my first experience with leveling anything so forgive the lack of knowledge. Do I need 4 to do both sides? Or just 2 if the truck is sloping a certain way? I read that only one is needed for the back dually tires and that the inside tire is the one that should be leveled. Glad I don't need 6 but wondering if I even need 4.

Final question: How level do I REALLY need to be to keep the fridge running? Is a night here and there of some sloping going to mess things up?

20 Replies

  • A similar design as the anderson's, I've been using these EZ Jacks for 3 years and love them:
  • I'm a techie so I like playing with gadgets, if you are also so inclined maybe look at the levelmate pro. It is a device you mount in the camper and then you can see how out of level you are from the cab of the truck. In this way you may be able to move around your site until you find a level enough spot without getting out.

    My truck also has the levels in the dash but these have a finer granularity.

    http://www.thervgeeks.com/product-recommendations/21st-century-rv-leveling-levelmatepro/
  • RamblinAnne wrote:
    I'm looking for an easy solution to my leveling issues. I just moved into my TC full time (so happy!) and I boondock most nights so I move around a lot. The electric jacks are great but they seem like a bit of a hassle to set up for just one night (especially since I'm usually trying to be inconspicuous).

    I see the Andersen Levelers and they look great. Does anyone have any experience? Are they superior to standard blocks? Worth the extra cash?

    How many in total do I really need? This is my first experience with leveling anything so forgive the lack of knowledge. Do I need 4 to do both sides? Or just 2 if the truck is sloping a certain way? I read that only one is needed for the back dually tires and that the inside tire is the one that should be leveled. Glad I don't need 6 but wondering if I even need 4.

    Final question: How level do I REALLY need to be to keep the fridge running? Is a night here and there of some sloping going to mess things up?


    I'll answer your final question young lady.... No or maybe..

    I'd got to Wally-World and buy a 10 buck Accurite digital remote thermometer and put the transmitter in the fridge (hang it with a zip tie from a rack) and the receiver can go in the truck with you so you can monitor the fridge temp as you drive... Very handy.

    If the fridge is below 40 (35 or lower is even better), shutting it off at night isn't an issue, it's dark, no sunlight beating on the camper side...it will maintain the interior temperature all night. I do that all the time. I would, however, make sure the fridge has plenty of insulation in the space between the fridge and the cabinet it's in....

    RV builders like to skimp on insulation and a trip to a box store and 10 bucks will net you a roll of R13 unfaced, just the ticket for stuffing in the space and increasing the thermal efficiency.

    As long as the interior temp stays below 40, your food is fine and with the digital remote you can monitor the temps without opening the door and letting the cold air out and the warm air in....

    My rule of thumb for stationary operation of an ammonia fridge is within 1/2 bubble on a carpenters torpedo level, in both axis' front to back and side to side. Depending on the orientation of your fridge (most are mounted in a sidewall, front to back is more critical than side to side because the flow of solution in the coils is predicated on gravity. I carry one in the drawer by the fridge, all the time. I don;t go by the old adgae..if it's comfortable to sleep in the bunk, it's level enough. I use the bubble level every time.

    My 2 cents, take it for what it's worth.
  • I have a pair of these.



    I store them under the table for travel. I like to find reasonably level spots and these usually to the trick. In more extreme cases I will loosen the tie downs and use the camper jacks.

    I have found that given the choice I will park to raise the front wheel(s) which helps lower the back end to make getting in the camper easier by lowering the steps.
  • I bought the rapid jacks but they are pretty narrow so not sure they support the tire enough, I've tried lots of things but seem to keep going back to the tri-levelers, easier to store and wider.
  • I was excited to get Anderson levelers. I had 2 break. They are some what slippery so they slide. I've abandoned them and gone back to using 2 x 8 boards.

    I've added the ARP fridge protection, so being out of level is not as much of an issue for me any more.
  • I'm a believer that if you need two wheels a side to carry the load, you should support each one.


    That is the safest way of thinking for sure.

    Difference between two tires to carry the load where there is heat build up while rotating down the road and sitting still. If you check with the tire manufacturer for load capacity at very slow speeds or sitting still where you don't have heat build up, you will find it is more than capable of one tire carrying the load.

    However, if you do decide only one is going to be blocked, I would block the inside wheel to reduce the loading on the axle shaft. But even the axle is strong enough to be supported by just the outside wheel because it is designed for the dynamics forces of bouncing over the bumps and dips of the road.

    I gave up on the stackable lego blocks, many swear by them


    Trick I've found is unless you are using on smooth asphalt or concrete, you must use a board under them to provide a smooth service. I've been using the same set for 12 years and only have two cracked, both from before I learned this trick and used them on ground which had pieces of rocks in it. Even the two which have cracked are still useable, I just don't use the cracked side to pull up on them. That said, I do prefer my old school wood blocks which are much cheaper and easier to replace.
  • I purchased 4 of the Andersen Rapid Jacks vs the Levelers. The Rapid Jack provides a couple of more inches of lift over the Levelers and work fine for me. I put one under each rear tire if needed as I'm a believer that if you need two wheels a side to carry the load, you should support each one. I gave up on the stackable lego blocks, many swear by them, I swear at them, so for me, the Rapid Jack fills the bill. Very easy to use, just pull forward until the level centers, have the DW chock it, set the ebrake, throw it in park and shut her down.
  • The fridge needs to be 3* side to side and 6* from front to back, both as standing looking at the door of the fridge. In most units, this means the side to side is front to back of vehicle. If you do the calcs, basically this means the front tires must be within 8" of the rear tires and the left tires needs to be within 8" of the right tires. Generally, if you think the camper is level enough for you, it's level enough for the fridge.

    Depending on how much I'm out of level, I will use blocks on 1 - 3 wheels, but usually on 2 wheels. When using blocks under just 2 wheels, it is common to put an extra block or two under one of the wheels. This means I get say front lift with a bit of side tilt too. Some will argue this puts a strain on the frame, but if you are only doing this by a 3" or less, there is very little strain as the suspension takes up most of the difference.

    I have a SRW which makes things a little easier, but I would do the same if I had a drw, would just need an extra set of boards for the extra rear wheel. I also carry more than most need because I sometimes take a bad site for the view. I carry two 4x4x12, two 6x8x10, four 2x6x15, and a set of 8 lego blocks. The 2x6 work as boards or ramps up to the 4x4 or the larger block. The larger block can be put on any of the three sides for a variation in height. I can also use the lego blocks with or without the other blocks for additional height variation.

    Worst case is I've had the front wheels 16" off the ground. Just one of the reasons I have a 4wd is so I can put it in low range to help crawl up on the boards. Keeps from kicking the front blocks out from under the wheels.

    But generally, I find most parking lots are level enough at some place not to require blocks. I also try not to put it up on blocks in parking lots because it draws attention that I'm not just there for a short while.

    Nice thing about wooden blocks and boards, they are very cheap so no big deal if you leave them behind, just an inconvenience.
  • You will love the Anderson's. Biggest issue is leaning to move inches to level, not feet. You need one for each axle on a 5W, only one side. The Anderson's level side to side not front to rear. Not sure on a truck camper and your picture appears to be a dueley.