Levelling with Scissor Jacks
I know I'm going to get flamed, but I replaced the (4) OEM single arm stabilizers on my Trail Cruiser 30 ft travel trailer with (6) 24" scissor jacks. I experimented with lifting excessive weight with...
Forum Discussion
first off - why is it that some always have to be so definitive in their proclamations, as in i am right, you are wrong, and you are engaging in stupid foolish behavior ?? (this is not to say at all that some do not do stupid foolish things, but this thread initiator seems to not be that type of stupid/fool)
Here is what I do, and it is not damaging the trailer one bit!
lift the trailer right under the frame in between the two wheels / axles in the middle (as you would to change the tire) with an appropriate bottle jack to get it level (agree that any kind of scissors jack will not be good at all or proper / reliable to actually raise/lift a trailer)
Once it is raise with the bottle jacks - lower and tighten two scissors jacks either mounted right on the axles with heavy u-bolts. or welded / bolted to the frame as close to each axle as possibe. If you want belt and suspenders - leave the bottle jack in there with the scissors jack.
Once this done - I then lower my frame mounted front and back stabilizer jacks firmly to the ground.
This gives me 8 points of load bearing on each side (9 if you leave in the bottle jack) - and of course the tongue jack in the front. This gives the frame as much support in the lifting phase, and MORE support once all the scissors and stabilizers are in place.
And of course the last point brought up by one post - the by far most stress ever on a TT is when you are driving it... this is what it really needs to be designed for - since the dynamic fatigue and stress are FAR greater and less balanced than almost all the leveling schemes I have seen in this post. Aluminum and composite construction is used for two reasons - it is very good with the dynamic fatigue loads on the road... precisely because it it lighter while being just as strong as solid plywood or aluminum sheet.
Here is what I do, and it is not damaging the trailer one bit!
lift the trailer right under the frame in between the two wheels / axles in the middle (as you would to change the tire) with an appropriate bottle jack to get it level (agree that any kind of scissors jack will not be good at all or proper / reliable to actually raise/lift a trailer)
Once it is raise with the bottle jacks - lower and tighten two scissors jacks either mounted right on the axles with heavy u-bolts. or welded / bolted to the frame as close to each axle as possibe. If you want belt and suspenders - leave the bottle jack in there with the scissors jack.
Once this done - I then lower my frame mounted front and back stabilizer jacks firmly to the ground.
This gives me 8 points of load bearing on each side (9 if you leave in the bottle jack) - and of course the tongue jack in the front. This gives the frame as much support in the lifting phase, and MORE support once all the scissors and stabilizers are in place.
And of course the last point brought up by one post - the by far most stress ever on a TT is when you are driving it... this is what it really needs to be designed for - since the dynamic fatigue and stress are FAR greater and less balanced than almost all the leveling schemes I have seen in this post. Aluminum and composite construction is used for two reasons - it is very good with the dynamic fatigue loads on the road... precisely because it it lighter while being just as strong as solid plywood or aluminum sheet.
