Lippert axle issue

Just a 5000 lb.tube with a 4 bolt flange so I could use my old wheels and tires.I did order the axles complete with new Dexter bearings,brakes and drums.I didn't want to mix Dexter and Lippert parts. Needed new U bolts. Installation wasn't difficult.

Trainwatcher wrote:
We hit a lot of potholes on a trip south with our travel trailer last spring and bent the rear axle. We couldn't find anyone to straighten it. The axles were Lippert and rated at 3000 lbs. I replaced both axles myself with Dexter axles rated for 5000 lbs.

Trainwatcher,
Did you go totally 5000 lbs., #48 spindles/hubs/drums/brakes & new springs, or just a 5000lb 3" tube with the same hubs drums & brakes?

Lippert! Dosen't care they just sell cheap junk to RV manfactures for cheap.
Even Artic Fox is using some of there product.

We hit a lot of potholes on a trip south with our travel trailer last spring and bent the rear axle. We couldn't find anyone to straighten it. The axles were Lippert and rated at 3000 lbs. I replaced both axles myself with Dexter axles rated for 5000 lbs.

myredracer wrote:

westend wrote:


If it was determined that I needed to replace an axle/s, I'd take my trailer to a trusted frame shop.

100% agree on this. They can look for things you would never think to look for and have the equip. to do it. Look for one that is experienced with RVs and has a good reputation. May cost more than doing it all in your backyard yourself, but is money well worth being spent.

Had a really bad experience with a frame & suspension shop that our dealer sent our current TT to (shock install). Bunch of morons with no clue how to do it right, even with a detailed engineering drawing I did. Couldn't believe anyone could be that bad.

Had a previous TT into a very respected local frame & axle shop and they found a few things that wouldn't have been found otherwise, including substandard welds. Saved our bacon on that trailer.

Taking it to a shop . IMO, VG advice . Especially checking the welds too . There are a lot of Lippert frames being used these days.

westend wrote:


If it was determined that I needed to replace an axle/s, I'd take my trailer to a trusted frame shop.

100% agree on this. They can look for things you would never think to look for and have the equip. to do it. Look for one that is experienced with RVs and has a good reputation. May cost more than doing it all in your backyard yourself, but is money well worth being spent.

Had a really bad experience with a frame & suspension shop that our dealer sent our current TT to (shock install). Bunch of morons with no clue how to do it right, even with a detailed engineering drawing I did. Couldn't believe anyone could be that bad.

Had a previous TT into a very respected local frame & axle shop and they found a few things that wouldn't have been found otherwise, including substandard welds. Saved our bacon on that trailer.

I'm going to break from my usual DIY ethic on this...

If it was determined that I needed to replace an axle/s, I'd take my trailer to a trusted frame shop. The frame shop would be able to install and true up my running gear better than I can. They might be able to make a determination as to the cause of the failure. If I factored in my labor at minimum wage, the frame shop wins as well.

Wishing you the best luck on getting the axle issue fixed.

I've also read about this happening. Everything may *seem* under capacity, but as mentioned, are often designed to operate under ideal conditions. And as mentioned above, there have been cases of the wrong axles being installed at the factory. In one case, the manufacturer willingly covered replacement, but I think it was only if you filed a complaint (ie., no recall).

The "good" news is that a new axle doesn't cost a whole lot. Going to a HD 3" tube would be a good idea, but then you probably should replace both axles. If you replace an axle (or two), re & re is pretty straightforward. If you do replace it, you'll need to install new U-bolts. Not sure what you have for equalizers - I'd look at installing good ones like Dexter EZ-flex.

I don't think it's likely that the axle is upside down as a spring perch is welded on one side to prevent an axle from rotating. See 3rd photo.

I think you should check for other abnormalities like bent spring hangers, failed spring bushings, ovalized holes in spring hangers, etc. that could have contributed to this. I met one TT owner at a CG last year that had this happen and it was due to loose wheel bearings caused by work the PO did.

Maybe you've hit a few too many speed bumps or abrupt changes in heights of adjacent concrete slabs on a highway? Lots of sharp right angle turns? With some suspensions & frames, frame flex could be a contributing factor. If you look at a wheel during a tight turn (parking lot or CG site), you'll be surprised how much an axle bends, like in photos below (3500 lb rated). The tubing is paper thin and easy to damage.

FWIW, while looking for a photo to copy to show a spring perch on an axle, I came across the 4th photo showing how someone did an axle flip to get more ground clearance. This is how not to do it. Notice the perch is now on the underside of the axle and there is nothing to prevent the axle from rotating. You can buy just the perches to weld on.

We have upgraded to 4400 lb Alko axles from the standard factory 3500 lb ones. Funny thing is, all 4 wheels had failed seals at 7 months old requiring a complete rebuild (by dealer). Now, 10 months later, I found one bearing running too warm and I plan to replace all 4 of them pdq. Can't trust anyone to do get anything right it seems when it comes to RVs. Pffft.

Dascro58 wrote:
So...has anyone experienced an axle failing like this?

I might have.

I had a 2011 Forest River Wildwood 26TBSS that had all 4 tires wearing out the inside edges and I experienced 2 blowouts. When I looked closely at the axles they both looked overloaded - there was no camber on either axle. I upgraded the axles, brakes, tires and rims to 5,000# axles and never had a problem since.

I don't know if the axle's "failed" on me or if they were defective to start with.

When I went through all this trouble I found that a lot of trailers had experienced the exact same problem. It appears there were either a bunch of mis-labelled axles or they were under-spec'd by the manufacturer. Many were replaced for free by the trailer and/or axle manufacturer.

Ed

It seems to me that I see more of these type of posts than would be expected. Lippert seems to feature in a lot of them too. I had both of my axles bend on my 2011 Eclipse Milan 18CK. All four tires had rapid wear on the inside edges. I attributed it to overloading them do to boondocking on very rough dirt roads, Each axle does take an excessive portion of the load at times, but I see reports of axles bending from normal usage too. My axles were also factory installed with the wheels/hubs having more overhang beyond the springs than the maximum allowed. This was a design flaw.

After some research, I elected to replace my "No Brand Name" made in china 3500 # axles with two Al-Ko 3500# axles with their optional heavy duty 3500# 3" (vs. 2 3/8" standard)tubes. 3" is the tube size used with 4000# - 7000# axle sets. The 3500# heavy duty axle uses the same #84 spindle and the square 4 hole brake mounting flange, allowing transfer of the original hubs and brakes to the new axles. They also came drilled and tapped for the "EZ-Lube" option. They also required new 3" axle hangers and U-Bolts/nuts. I installed them "flipped" as I had already done this mod for increased ground clearance.

These axles and the 4 new tires I put on with them have been on the trailer since Aug. 2012 and have stood up to everything, including boondocking on the same roads that bent the original axles, I have put them through.

I chose the Al-Ko axles since they manufacture in Oregon, much closer to me, to save freight costs. You would probably want to get them from Dexter since they are closer to you. Dexter does offer the 3" heavy duty 3500# axle also.