Look at my hitch set up please....

Redterpos3 wrote:

lukenick wrote:
None of you see a problem with the spring bars being so low to the ground? I scrape so much with them like that.

It looks to me that the drop on the ball coming off your truck is too much. You could raise the ball higher on that hitch (to the top holes), and save 3-5"

They had to add that drop because anything higher and the trailer would not be level due to the underslung coupler. It is an 11" drop and the head is mounted to the very bottom holes.

lukenick wrote:
None of you see a problem with the spring bars being so low to the ground? I scrape so much with them like that.

It looks to me that the drop on the ball coming off your truck is too much. You could raise the ball higher on that hitch (to the top holes), and save 3-5"

I second this. A power tongue jack is the best addition you can make, assuming it doesn't come standard.

hohenwald48 wrote:
Yeah, you really need a power tongue jack. Easily worth a few hundred extra bucks. I can't imagine life without one.

1.Raise the coupler to the top of the frame which will gain you the clearance you need.

2. Do a complete re-installation of your hitch, following manufacturer's instructions. Verify by weights and ratings.

3. Enjoy your travel trailer.

If it was me I would....
Remount the coupler on top and gain about two inches in height
Add more tilt to the head and adjust so as to remove some chain links
"Flip" the axles to gain about five more inches in height
Easy...

The drop off the truck looks way too low to me thus making everything else low. I know some trailers are too low to the ground. Do not be afraid to lift the truck with your power jack to hook everything up.

lukenick wrote:
Is that why when a tractor trailer passes me on the highway it sucks me right in?

In addition to the suction caused by the airflow just in front of the tractor trailer, the tractor trailer passing you produces a "bow" wave similar to the wave produced by a boat moving thru the water.

As this "wave" hits the rear side of your TT it moves the rear of the TT away from the semi, this turns the front of the TT toward the semi which in turn pushes the rear of the TV toward the semi and the front of the TV toward the shoulder of the road. Then a second or so later the semi "bow" wave moves forward and presses on the front side of the TT and the same process repeats in the opposite direction. While all that oscillating action is taking place, you are trying to counter steer and I guess you get the idea.

Try not counter steering too much and it will help reduce the action a little. Pay attention to traffic overtaking you so you are not surprised by it. Anti sway devices help reduce the severity of the oscillations caused by the "bow" wave pressing on your rig by helping the connection between your TT a TV remain more rigid and resistant to the side forces.

westend wrote:

lukenick wrote:
Is that why when a tractor trailer passes me on the highway it sucks me right in?

The lower air pressure and air movement created by the moving tractor-trailer is the force at work. It is likely that your hitch has little effect against this force.

I'd suggest that the hitch coupler replacement be done at a qualified trailer/welding shop. I wouldn't trust a dealer's service or repair facility with that task. BTW, if your brakes and bearings haven't been inspected and serviced (even though the trailer is new), you may wish to have that done at the repair shop. There have been more than a few stories about inadequately greased hubs and maladjusted brakes with new trailers on this Forum.

My TT is actually a 2010. I was able to be in touch with the previous owner when I got it and he had the bearings done last year.

lukenick wrote:
Is that why when a tractor trailer passes me on the highway it sucks me right in?

The lower air pressure and air movement created by the moving tractor-trailer is the force at work. It is likely that your hitch has little effect against this force.

I'd suggest that the hitch coupler replacement be done at a qualified trailer/welding shop. I wouldn't trust a dealer's service or repair facility with that task. BTW, if your brakes and bearings haven't been inspected and serviced (even though the trailer is new), you may wish to have that done at the repair shop. There have been more than a few stories about inadequately greased hubs and maladjusted brakes with new trailers on this Forum.

After reading all the additional comments here and looking at the photos again, I do NOW see the problem. The original photo is a bit deceiving, looking down on the tongue, it's kind of hard to see the height of the bottom of the hitch on the truck to the ground. I now see it, and agree, this is a problem.

As other have stated, the trailer coupler looks like it's most of the problem for the entire system having to set so low. I'll be honest, I don't think I've EVER seen a trailer coupler mounted on the bottom of the frame. This concept might have been around for a hundred years, but this is the first I've seen it and it was pointed on this forum thread. And when I first looked at the original photo, I missed it completely.

Looking at the photo again, I'm not sure how this would be fixed, without surgery to the trailer now.

The OP said she was taking the trailer back to the original location where she purchased it, although under new management. I think, at this point, this is the wisest move the OP can make.

Hopefully, with everyone's combined knowledge, the OP has enough ammunition now to take back to the dealer so she can have an informed discussion for the best approach to resolve the problem.

Looked at the photo and reading the posts again, (actually, a couple times all the way through now), I find myself learning something new again from these forums. I suppose, like children, it only takes one person to own an RV, but "it takes a village" to keep us RV-ing!