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Seashellmama's avatar
Seashellmama
Explorer
Dec 19, 2016

Looking to buy a ightweight, modest travel trailer

Looking to get my first trailer. I have two kids, and none of us want to share a bed so it needs to have three separate sleeping places. I am super lazy, so would prefer those sleeping places be permanent-beds, because I know that once turned into a bed at a campground, that is how it will stay until we get home. I've got a 5000lb tow capacity (2014 Nissan Pathfinder 4WD), so don't want to go much over 3500lb GVWR. I realize that most people want a larger trailer after a while, but given that my kids will grow up and likely stop camping with me, I'm more likely to downsize in the future.

It seems like there are a few models with very similar floor plans, bunk beds and a queen... Jayco (174bh... previously 184bh?), Coachmen Clipper 17bh, Coachmen Apex Nano 185bh, a couple of others, too (I found one with a slideout, but still sub-3500lbs gross, but now I can't find it) then maybe a Forest River RP-172 and I don't know what else to consider.

I'm such a newbie I can barely differentiate any of these. I want to keep it around the $15k range, and I know I'll need to get things that don't come with them, like sway bars, weight distribution hitch, bits and whatnot that I didn't know I needed, other things I'll think I need that are totally useless, etc etc.

I'm open to all sorts of advice (though telling me I need a bigger and better tow vehicle has to fall on deaf ears, because reality; telling me I have to get a pop-up will make me cry). My current obsession is about how to choose among the available options, and whether any are a particularly poor choice.
  • Any of the 17BH models would work well.

    Forest RIver has a Viking 17BH, which is a carbon copy (probably made in same factory) as the Coachmen Clipper 17BH.

    My preference, get one with a roof A/C instead of one with a household, through-wall A/C.
    The through-wall A/C seems like a place waiting fore a leak to happen.

    ALso, look for models that have a side cargo door that opens in to the bunk area. That gives you a good opportunity for access to storage under the bunk.
  • Let's start back with your tow vehicle. The published "maximum towing capacity" is a rather useless number. In most cases, you'll run out of payload before you hit the maximum towing capacity of your tow vehicle.

    On the driver's side door or door frame, there should be a sticker with the vehicle's weight ratings. There should be three numbers: GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating), GVWRF (gross weight rating for the front axle), and GVWRR (gross weight rating for the rear axle). Next, you need to load up your kids, fill the gas tank, get the dog(s) (if you have any), and throw anything else you will have with you camping in the back or the 4-Runner and head for the nearest CAT scales (local truck stop). Pull onto the front two pads (front wheels on front pad and back wheels on middle or second pad). Jump back in the vehicle before they press the button to weigh. You will get three weights out of this: the total vehicle weight and the weight on the front and rear axles.

    Next, add the actual weight of the rear axle to the weight of the load-distributing hitch system you're going to use and subtract the sum from the GVWRR on the door sticker. This will be your leftover "payload" for the tongue weight of the trailer.

    How do you estimate the tongue weight of the trailer? DO NOT use the dry tongue weight or anything the dealer tells you. Find the GVWR for the trailer (RVs will have a sticker, too - usually on the driver's/street side at the front) and take 12% of that for a tow-behind trailer to use for an estimated tongue weight. If this number exceeds the usable (leftover) payload from the exercise with the 4-Runner, it's too much trailer for your tow vehicle. Stay within this safety envelope... THEN find an RV that suits your needs and wants.

    Rob