Lowering 3500/350 bed height??

Thanks for the answers guys. I'll find a shop to do the work, cause I don't even like changing my own oil anymore. But it's good to at least have an idea what I'll be up against.

I think the GM trucks use torsion bars in the front, at least my ancient '03 does.

And I agree Flip, that a lower truck would be much more user friendly.

On my previous F350 FX4 SRW, I had the dealer replace the 4" blocks on the rear axle with 2" blocks to drop the rear 2". I think the 4x2 and DRW comes with 2" blocks.

frankwp wrote:
Thanks for the info Flip, that's what I was hoping to hear. Does the front suspension use spacer blocks as well?

No, your front suspension (2wd or 4wd) is coils. If you go 4wd, the same applies to driveline angles as the rear. Dropping the front (with coils) would entail aftermarket shortened coils (which are available) or removing the OEM coils and lopping off some of them, which is also doable but it has to be a cold cut.

Ford is building their new trucks way too high but it's a 'macho' thing. At my age, I'm more concerned with sleeping than macho.

if you lived around here, I'd lend a hand. I have a nicely equipped shop for doing that stuff.

My old Ford (1997 F350 SRW) has leaf springs front and rear with solid axles (4 wheel drive). Rides like a lumberwagon empty but is stone easy to work on. Why I keep it.

Thanks for the info Flip, that's what I was hoping to hear. Does the front suspension use spacer blocks as well?

Retrofit to air suspension or pull and reduce the spacer block height (there is a spacer block between the axle perch and the spring pack). The only downside to that is, you must maintain the driveline angle from the axle pinion shaft to the transmission or you'll have U joint issues. Good news is, you can buy degree shims over the counter or machine the existing spacer blocks and any competent machine shop can do that in a few minutes.

You need to determine the OEM driveshaft angle with the truck unloaded (nothing in the bed, full fuel tanks, with a protractor and duplicate that angle with shortened spacer blocks. pretty simple Geometry actually.

Sounds complicated but it isn't. I lifted my truck (for offroad purposes) and additional 4" front and back and I had to adjust the driveshaft angle (also called the thrust angle), accordingly.