Maintance on new 6.7 Ram

Bigger pain in the rear is greasing the front driveshaft.

Grit dog wrote:

IdaD wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

IdaD wrote:
Get a filter end wrench from Genos and use it with a ratchet to loosen, then drop it into a freezer bag, zip it up and pull it through the hole. It could be easier but it's not awful, and I've yet to spill any oil with the freezer bag trick. I did have to use a cheater bar for the first change so there's some truth to that silverback gorilla comment...

Do you pre fill the filter?

Nope. I was taught not to and it's never caused me any trouble. I don't think it makes any difference either way.

Lotsa debate around this. My take is if filters "had" to be pre filled to prevent engine damage on startup, then there wouldn't be applications with oil filters mounted horizontally. Don't worry about pre filling.

Yep. I am fortunate enough to have a certified Cummins mechanic at the FD fleet maintenance shop where I work and he said no need to pre-fill. Just crank it after the change and let It idle about 5 min before normal operation and check levels. I'm not knocking anyone who does, just not required if common sense is applied. If it was I don't believe the truck would have been engineered like it is to change through the fender well.

IdaD wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

IdaD wrote:
Get a filter end wrench from Genos and use it with a ratchet to loosen, then drop it into a freezer bag, zip it up and pull it through the hole. It could be easier but it's not awful, and I've yet to spill any oil with the freezer bag trick. I did have to use a cheater bar for the first change so there's some truth to that silverback gorilla comment...

Do you pre fill the filter?

Nope. I was taught not to and it's never caused me any trouble. I don't think it makes any difference either way.

Lotsa debate around this. My take is if filters "had" to be pre filled to prevent engine damage on startup, then there wouldn't be applications with oil filters mounted horizontally. Don't worry about pre filling.

I use the top method. Don't forget your ccv filter around 65k miles unless you delete that filter. You can have problems if you don't do either.

I tried the fender method on my first change and found that I just can't get both my hands inside of the opening which is critical to be able to maneuver the filter properly. Also trying to wrestle around a prefilled filter and get it started is not easy in there. Having the wheel well area super clean is essential if you choose this method to avoid having any contamination enter the new filter.

I use the top method by removing the intake tube which is also not a walk in the park but I'm getting better at it now that I've done it a few times. The big thing is to make sure that the tube is properly reinstalled and clamps tightened at the end of the job.

I agree that this is something that should have been addressed better at the factory. I may consider adding a filter relocation kit when my warranty is up.

Cummins12V98 wrote:

IdaD wrote:
Get a filter end wrench from Genos and use it with a ratchet to loosen, then drop it into a freezer bag, zip it up and pull it through the hole. It could be easier but it's not awful, and I've yet to spill any oil with the freezer bag trick. I did have to use a cheater bar for the first change so there's some truth to that silverback gorilla comment...

Do you pre fill the filter?

Nope. I was taught not to and it's never caused me any trouble. I don't think it makes any difference either way.

IdaD wrote:
Get a filter end wrench from Genos and use it with a ratchet to loosen, then drop it into a freezer bag, zip it up and pull it through the hole. It could be easier but it's not awful, and I've yet to spill any oil with the freezer bag trick. I did have to use a cheater bar for the first change so there's some truth to that silverback gorilla comment...

Do you pre fill the filter?

Get a filter end wrench from Genos and use it with a ratchet to loosen, then drop it into a freezer bag, zip it up and pull it through the hole. It could be easier but it's not awful, and I've yet to spill any oil with the freezer bag trick. I did have to use a cheater bar for the first change so there's some truth to that silverback gorilla comment...

Go to turbodieselregister.com and look for a thread in the 4th gen section called "EASY 2013 up oil change". I show how to do the change thru the top method with a few pointers to make the change EASY and CLEAN.

It's not to difficult at all. Maybe not quite as easy as your old 5.9, but not hard either. Simply turn the wheel all the way to the right before starting to give you more room. Drop the filter in a ziplock back before removing, or get the filter cap some use from Genos before pulling it through the fender well. Others also go through the top to do it by removing the air intake hoses. I prefer through the fender which after you do it once becomes very easy. If it's your first change on a new truck I recommend letting the dealer do it as they have a silverback gorilla who installs them at the Cummins factory.