More solar questions!

Undoubtedly, everything in your 12 V system is negative (-) phase to frame ground.

If you have the OEM installed Z amp wiring for a solar panel, there may exist two wires connected to the battery that are used as "panel-direct", i.e. used without a solar charge controller with a smaller maintenance type solar module.

Here's what I would suggest: Wire solar panel only to solar charge controller. Wire solar charge controller directly to battery. Install Victron shunt between battery negative terminal and frame ground. Any superfluous wiring can be removed or terminated with non-conducting termination. It sounds to me like you have duplicated, parallel circuits between the solar panel and the battery, probably a pair of wires around and not connected to the charge controller. This is the reason you are seeing higher voltages at the battery.

When you interrupt battery power from the controller, it can't operate. It probably needs battery power to operate correctly.

Without a direct connection between the solar charge controller and the battery (interrupted by a switch), you are missing out on one of the better attributes of solar charging, i.e. maintaining your battery while it is in storage.

Controller instructions have no mention of equalization.
14.2 seems to be max voltage in the description.

Seems defective to me.

http://zampsolar.com/newsite/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/ZS-7A.pdf

http://www.zampsolar.com/product/7-amp-solar-charge-controller/

Ok. Charger is between solar panels and battery. At battery on negative side is a cable going from post to one side of shunt. From other side of shunt is negative coming from charger as well as another negative that I believe runs to 12v panel. It was on the negative battery post from factory. The positive side of the battery has the positive from the charger as well as a lead for the monitor and two other positive cables that were also there from factory.
So this is what I think. The positive from the charger is connected to battery and the 12v panel is also obviously connected. The negative from charger Is connected to shunt as well as the factory negative that I assume also connects to 12v panel. This would as you say allow the panel to provide power to both charger and lights until the panel is dark. But what I don't understand is why once the panel Sees sun again, it does not again provide power to charger and lights?
I'm disconnecting the battery from frame ground via a battery switch for storage. I put the switch on the negative side after reading that it didn't really matter which side it was on. It was also much easier to wire as there was only the jumper from the battery to the shunt. When I shut off the switch, there are no draws nor any charge.
Not to add questions, but how do I tell if the system is a positive ground or a negative one? Could this be a factor?
The charger that came with the trailer is a simple two stage non programmable charger. I can't shut off the equalization period.

Turn off the equalization. Change battery type to AGM or GELL if you must to stop the equalization. This should be a manual process when needed and the RV disconnected. 16.2 volts is too high for some components.

I'm also wondering how the wires into and from the controller are much smaller than the wires from panel and to battery?

Can you explain that a bit more? It is a confusing description as your solar charge controller should be between the solar panel and the battery.

About the only way your solar system could be powering lights without a battery connected fully is if you have the wires from the solar charge controller output connected to either the RV's converter output or at the 12 V distribution panel. There would also need to be an additional frame ground.

Disconnecting the battery's negative terminal would eliminate any power to the solar charge controller at night and would probably leave the controller in an inoperable state in the morning. Does the owner's manual for the solar charge controller specify connecting battery before connecting wires from the solar panel? Most do. A larger question might be why are you disconnecting the battery from frame ground?

Thanks for the responses. To clarify. I have a VictronConnect 700 battery monitor installed as well so I can accurately read voltage and charge. I'm disconnecting the negative lead at the battery but still able to use lights until there is no sun on panel. And when the sun returns, I'm not able to use lights.
I'm also wondering how the wires into and from the controller are much smaller than the wires from panel and to battery? Matt

I am just now thinking solar myself... One of the best tools I think that will help me the most will be my inexpensive SEARS CLAMP ON meter... This is a portable 0-400 AC and DC current model.

This makes it great for measuring one leg of any AC circuit as well...

The best part of this meter in DC mode is clamping around each battery terminal feed cable and you want to observe the same DC current being demanded from each battery telling you all batteries are being charged evenly.

The one I have comes in a nice carry case...



Roy Ken

I thought it was a bad idea to disconnect the battery with the panel still connected to the controller?

Matt, Not familiar with that controller but generically speaking, if you remove either the positive or negative wire from either the controller to panel or controller to battery, you've basically interrupted the charge circuit and no battery charging can happen.

You don't state which negative terminal is being disconnected but I'll assume it is the wire from the panel. With the battery still offering power to the controller, lights could stay on.

After an equalization cycle the battery may hold higher than normal voltage for awhile. With the solar system still connected, the equalization schedule may have ended and just typical charge power may be delivered to the battery.

A lot of your confusion may be avoided by the use of a handheld meter rather than relying on lights and information on the controller screen. A meter with clamp feature that can read higher levels of DC amperage is a definite plus. They can typically be had for less than $75.