My 6.0 actually has a little problem (Rollingrock) UPDATED

64thunderbolt wrote:

skanj0 wrote:

brirene wrote:
I could use a copy of the 4th grade explanation too! :) Guess my concern is that you're putting a bandaid on it. Hopefully the pump will solve your problem, or even throwing bpd coolers on it, which should definitely address the issue. That would eliminate the need for the fan switch, and address the causal problem. Other than being nice to cool it even further at times, what am I missing?

My experience thus far is that the OEM fan control strategy has the fan ramp-up rate starting too late. When pulling a grade with a load in hot weather the fan strategy has it ramping-up at about 215f ECT. In many trucks, and those with BPD oil coolers, the EOT would be even hotter. I have found that it is easier on the truck to preventitively engage the fan early and "hold the temps down" than it is to allow the default fan strategy to work and then watch the fan struggle to hold ECTs/EOTs - much less reduce them much.

My friend has the exact same truck as mine as has the BPD oil cooler. He is currnetly working with BPD to troubleshoot high oil temps when towing, as on a recent trip his EOT was much higher than mine, and I dont have the BPD oil cooler (yet). He purchased and installed his BPD oil cooler earlier this year, just before BPD released the heavy duty cooler option. He is now working with BPD to exchange the standard cooler for the heavy duty cooler. In the event that still doesnt bring his EOTs down enough when towing, we are also installing a manual fan switch in his truck this weekend. We will be using Upfitter switch #1 and a relay as I describe above.

Your tuner if you have tunes can turn the fan on @ a temp you desire.

I don't think the SCTXCAL II has this feature.

JP

skanj0 wrote:

brirene wrote:
I could use a copy of the 4th grade explanation too! :) Guess my concern is that you're putting a bandaid on it. Hopefully the pump will solve your problem, or even throwing bpd coolers on it, which should definitely address the issue. That would eliminate the need for the fan switch, and address the causal problem. Other than being nice to cool it even further at times, what am I missing?

My experience thus far is that the OEM fan control strategy has the fan ramp-up rate starting too late. When pulling a grade with a load in hot weather the fan strategy has it ramping-up at about 215f ECT. In many trucks, and those with BPD oil coolers, the EOT would be even hotter. I have found that it is easier on the truck to preventitively engage the fan early and "hold the temps down" than it is to allow the default fan strategy to work and then watch the fan struggle to hold ECTs/EOTs - much less reduce them much.

My friend has the exact same truck as mine as has the BPD oil cooler. He is currnetly working with BPD to troubleshoot high oil temps when towing, as on a recent trip his EOT was much higher than mine, and I dont have the BPD oil cooler (yet). He purchased and installed his BPD oil cooler earlier this year, just before BPD released the heavy duty cooler option. He is now working with BPD to exchange the standard cooler for the heavy duty cooler. In the event that still doesnt bring his EOTs down enough when towing, we are also installing a manual fan switch in his truck this weekend. We will be using Upfitter switch #1 and a relay as I describe above.

Your tuner if you have tunes can turn the fan on @ a temp you desire.

brirene wrote:
I could use a copy of the 4th grade explanation too! :) Guess my concern is that you're putting a bandaid on it. Hopefully the pump will solve your problem, or even throwing bpd coolers on it, which should definitely address the issue. That would eliminate the need for the fan switch, and address the causal problem. Other than being nice to cool it even further at times, what am I missing?

X2
Lots of pictures would be nice. Easier on the eyes.

I need to look into this as well. I haven't noticed any extreme temps lately (I need to pull the camper more often), but I'm a sucker for ideas like this!

brirene wrote:
I could use a copy of the 4th grade explanation too! :) Guess my concern is that you're putting a bandaid on it. Hopefully the pump will solve your problem, or even throwing bpd coolers on it, which should definitely address the issue. That would eliminate the need for the fan switch, and address the causal problem. Other than being nice to cool it even further at times, what am I missing?

My experience thus far is that the OEM fan control strategy has the fan ramp-up rate starting too late. When pulling a grade with a load in hot weather the fan strategy has it ramping-up at about 215f ECT. In many trucks, and those with BPD oil coolers, the EOT would be even hotter. I have found that it is easier on the truck to preventitively engage the fan early and "hold the temps down" than it is to allow the default fan strategy to work and then watch the fan struggle to hold ECTs/EOTs - much less reduce them.

My friend has the exact same truck as mine as has the BPD oil cooler. He is currnetly working with BPD to troubleshoot high oil temps when towing, as on a recent trip his EOT was much higher than mine, and I dont have the BPD oil cooler (yet). He purchased and installed his BPD oil cooler earlier this year, just before BPD released the heavy duty cooler option. He is now working with BPD to exchange the standard cooler for the heavy duty cooler. In the event that still doesnt bring his EOTs down enough when towing, we are also installing a manual fan switch in his truck this weekend. We will be using Upfitter switch #1 and a relay as I describe above.

RollingRockTX wrote:

skanj0 wrote:

RollingRockTX wrote:

skanj0 wrote:
RollingRock-

I hope you got her straightened-out. I recently had 3 overheating events on a trip with ECT rocketing to between 240 and 253f. A new BPD water pump (amongst other things) is going in this weekend. Here is a link to my thread on Powerstroke.org: http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/477257-unusual-problem-rapidly-increasing-ect-puking-normal-eot-pulling-grade.html

Another thing you may want to consider is adding a manual fan control switch. I did this on the side of the road after my 3rd boil over in 2 days, and man does it bring the ECT down in a hurry. I would switch the fan on at the base of a grade and it would lock-in at 100% with 5 seconds. At the top of the grade I would then switch it back to "automode" letting the PCM take control of it. Worked like a charm! Nothing like climbing a grade and seeing the ECT and EOT dropping! Here's a how to thread: http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/225699-manual-fan-control.html

Caught your thread over there. I still cannot figure out the mod, so many different versions in that same thread. Where did that guy go who was going to build a box for that?

Not sure where he went.

It doesnt need to be very complicated. Once I change my water pump this weekend I plan to make a more permanent fan switch (versus the one done on the side of the road last week). I plan to use Upfitter switch #1 to trigger a relay, and the realy will switch a ground connection to the blue wire going to the fan clutch.

Currently I used a "tee-tap" connector to tie a wire to the blue wire leading to the fan clutch plug. I then ran the wire through the firewall and popped it out near the ash tray. I then hooked the wire to a simple rocker switch. After than I ran a short wire to a body ground and connected it to the other side of the rocker switch. So, when the switch is off (open connection) the fan is controlled by the PCM. When the switch is pressed the contacts close and and a ground signal is then sent to the fan clutch. Within 3 to 5 seconds the fan lock's-in at 100%. Simple and easy!

I do have on upfitter open but saw all the warnings about using it, so I may hit you up on PM and have you splain it like a 4th grader for me. :)

No problem Rolling Rock. I built a relay setup yesterday to allow me to use my Upfitter Switch #1 as a manual fan control switch. When switched on, the upfitter swtich will provide 12v power to the normally open relay, causing the secondary contacts to close. When the contacts close this will allow the jumper wire attached to the fan harness to ground, engaging the fan 100%. I plan to install tomorrow and will post pictures afterward.

Jarlaxle wrote:



Yeah, you only need head studs, new gaskets, and a redesigned EGR system. And you, again, consider it acceptable that needing to do this just to ensure basic reliability is acceptable. Absolutely incredible. Were you also highly satisfied with your Yugo?

Never owned a Yugo.

Of course, if you were to check the thread topics on this forum, you would find good and bad about any truck, be it Duramax, Cummins, or International/Ford powered. There's one active now regarding a Duramax engine blowing a head gasket after it went over 100K miles.
Go back a bit and you'll find stories of Dodge/RAM trucks that eat their transmissions. The point is, anything made by the hand of man can and often WILL fail.

My point regarding my truck is that I've had it since it was new. The engine was running fine when the EGR cooler blew. I could have spent less than $1000 on just a oil cooler and EGR. I knew its service history. I wouldn't know that about a replacement truck unless I bought another new truck at $65K. But I added some items that improved the trucks systems while I had it on the rack. Everything else other than the oil cooler and EGR cooler were optional installations.

Reading the latest issue of Diesel Power, the editor mention the very same thing, nothing comes out with zero defects, no matter who makes it. If I want to spend as little or as much as I want for increased reliability, that's my business.

Finally, I do not consider the failure of an emissions control part to equate to the failure of an engine. You seem to. Tell me, do you buy a new truck when the brakes need to be replaced? Trash it when you need to change the oil? Bad mouth it when the alternator goes south?

So I ended up pulling the camper, 90 min today to our spot for the weekend. Temp outside was 100.

Max ECT: 220
Max EOT: 227

I did hear the fan but not at 220 as it was on a grade and pushing RMPs's but I could hear a slight humm fromt he engine so I know my new fan clutch was working.

Net is, never went to over 220 and it pretty much averaged 216 on the ECT.


Since i never paid attention to it before I can what it was prior to the new parts. But i can tell you this, 2 weeks ago, I wouldn't of made it 10 miles and I would have been over 225 on the ECT even at 90 degrees outside.

RR

I could use a copy of the 4th grade explanation too! :) Guess my concern is that you're putting a bandaid on it. Hopefully the pump will solve your problem, or even throwing bpd coolers on it, which should definitely address the issue. That would eliminate the need for the fan switch, and address the causal problem. Other than being nice to cool it even further at times, what am I missing?

skanj0 wrote:

RollingRockTX wrote:

skanj0 wrote:
RollingRock-

I hope you got her straightened-out. I recently had 3 overheating events on a trip with ECT rocketing to between 240 and 253f. A new BPD water pump (amongst other things) is going in this weekend. Here is a link to my thread on Powerstroke.org: http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/477257-unusual-problem-rapidly-increasing-ect-puking-normal-eot-pulling-grade.html

Another thing you may want to consider is adding a manual fan control switch. I did this on the side of the road after my 3rd boil over in 2 days, and man does it bring the ECT down in a hurry. I would switch the fan on at the base of a grade and it would lock-in at 100% with 5 seconds. At the top of the grade I would then switch it back to "automode" letting the PCM take control of it. Worked like a charm! Nothing like climbing a grade and seeing the ECT and EOT dropping! Here's a how to thread: http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/225699-manual-fan-control.html

Caught your thread over there. I still cannot figure out the mod, so many different versions in that same thread. Where did that guy go who was going to build a box for that?

Not sure where he went.

It doesnt need to be very complicated. Once I change my water pump this weekend I plan to make a more permanent fan switch (versus the one done on the side of the road last week). I plan to use Upfitter switch #1 to trigger a relay, and the realy will switch a ground connection to the blue wire going to the fan clutch.

Currently I used a "tee-tap" connector to tie a wire to the blue wire leading to the fan clutch plug. I then ran the wire through the firewall and popped it out near the ash tray. I then hooked the wire to a simple rocker switch. After than I ran a short wire to a body ground and connected it to the other side of the rocker switch. So, when the switch is off (open connection) the fan is controlled by the PCM. When the switch is pressed the contacts close and and a ground signal is then sent to the fan clutch. Within 3 to 5 seconds the fan lock's-in at 100%. Simple and easy!

I do have on upfitter open but saw all the warnings about using it, so I may hit you up on PM and have you splain it like a 4th grader for me. :)