My leak test setup

I see no reason why 2 or 3 fantastic fans wouldn’t supply enough air on their own… they will cause a door not latched good to blow open and when closed you can feel the air leaking around the door, even while the air is holding the range hood vent open… I believe there is enough volume and locking the range hood vent closed should allow for enough pressure to build… I just haven’t tried it yet…

How to make a U-tube manometer.

Note: One end of the U-tubing is left open. If using the manometer to test the propane regulator, make sure it can't fall over. If it does so the propane pressure can blow the water out of the tube, allowing propane to escape and cause a potential fire hazard.

Don't ask how I know this...

westend wrote:
I used an HVAC furnace blower in a window and a DIY manometer which showed 1 inch of water column.

Can you show pictures of your setup and how did you make your manometer

Camo

I applaud you. My kind of guy. Many opinions and second hand information on this forum, but you have proven that ingenuity always trumps armchair quarterbacking. Thanks for putting yourself out there and extending our collective knowledge base.

mister_d wrote:
Would using my Craftsman Shop Vac work for this? The site says that it's blowing velocity is at 170mph.

It would not be mph but CFM that would be important. I would be curious what the CFM of the leaf blower that you used was. I think if you can duplicate the CFM of Camo's leaf blower with running your roof vent in reverse, running your dash vent, and running the furnace at the same time this might work. I have not read where any one tried this.

Nice system! Did you see the blue tub expand at all?
I've done the pressurized air test twice and plan to do it every year. It will turn up even the smallest of pinhole leaks. AFAIK, Sealtech uses a manometer on the machine that adjusts interior pressure to around .5 inches of water column. I used an HVAC furnace blower in a window and a DIY manometer which showed 1 inch of water column. Either of those pressures is sufficient for testing and a user will have a difficult time to get pressure in the interior to anything that would damage the structure.
A newer TT will have openings like under the tub for plumbing, the furnace vent, water heater enclosure, and other places where air can escape. That isn't critical if you have a good source of air like the OP's blower. It is amazing how much air comes out of the entrance door, for instance.
Since I rebuilt my rig and was very aware of water intrusion, I sealed everything using multiple types of sealing materials. I also have a lot of experience in construction so thought there would be no leaks. The first test, last year, turned up about 20 or so leaks. This year, I found about a half dozen. The pressurized air test is the only thing that will uncover all of the water intrusion points.

A pinhole leak:

I read the specs where a Poulan 200-MPH Gas Blower/Vacuum has 25cc, 2-cycle gas-powered engine and 200mph and 430cfm.

450 CFM or so seemed to make enough pressure to create a bubble from the leaks by a good leaf blower.

I'm going to step this up a bit and buy a Portable ventilator and hose and build a custom internal adapter similar to the Sealtech mount and run it. I figure it will cost me about $125 but it will pay for itself once I find the leak as a local shop wanted 2-4 hours @ $120 an hour with a 2 hour minimum. I'd rather run this from the inside than all the contraptions I've seen hooked up with leaf blowers.

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-portable-ventilator-97762.html




This portable ventilator airs out rooms, circulates air or dries wet areas with a powerful air output from 1400 to 1574 CFM. Perfect for dry wall, painting, reglazing, resurfacing, auto body work, welding or any area that needs clean air fast. Features include a two-speed motor, an ergonomic handle for effortless transport and an aluminum blade and steel housing construction for long lasting performance.

•Ergonomic handle for effortless carrying
•Four rubber feet for secure footing on any surface
•High speed free air 1575 CFM
•Low speed free air 1400 CFM

mister_d wrote:
Would using my Craftsman Shop Vac work for this? The site says that it's blowing velocity is at 170mph.

velocity isn't the thing you care about. It's the pressure. To much and you risk creating leaks, to little and you won't find them. Probably worth a try.

Might, try it and see and report back. :)

Would using my Craftsman Shop Vac work for this? The site says that it's blowing velocity is at 170mph.