34ft Palomino Sabre 31qbdsLove the floor planHate that it bounces & shakesI have used the x-chocks on both sides. I have attempted to use stablizer manual jacks on the slide out sides. It has electric jacks & they stink. Would switching to manual scissor jacks help? Could I install scissor jacks & use both?

34ft Palomino Sabre 31qbdsLove the floor planHate that it bounces & shakesI have used the x-chocks on both sides. I have attempted to use stablizer manual jacks on the slide out sides.It has electric jacks & they stink. Would switching to manual scissor jacks help? Could I install scissor jacks & use both? I use these jacks from walmart..I lower the front of the TT as low as it can go then place two jacks on the rear frame. Then I lift the front up to just above level then place two on the front frame. Then lower.. All four corners are now fully supported..I get zero bounce and shake. ( I support on Wood blocks )Camco jacks

One thing that might help is to use a scissor jack under one of the axles. I have a 35 ft TT and have had the same problem and explored options on the Forest River forum, where I got the idea of the scissor jack there. Seems to be a problem on the very long trailers like yours and ours. The jack helps quite a bit.

Are you using the jacks on the slides themselves or on the frame in that area? Generally jacks on the slides are NOT suggested....check your paperwork. We have a 26' and had no problem in the front, but the rear had more bounce than we liked. We were overnighting at a CW and in looking around DH found a type of jack, I guess you could call it. It's a length of angle steel with legs that make sort of a tripod effect, then it's secured and tightened with a heavy strap and rachet. That may not be the best description, but check the CW website and you should find it. They're a bit awkward to set up, but it's solved the wiggle in the rear. We went ahead and got one for the front as well. Someone else had a similar system with pix on here just a few weeks ago...you might get lucky and find the info on them. Pretty much the same concept.

Hard to eliminate all movement and bounce, but we have BAL scissor jacks (front), stab jacks (rear), and chocks between the wheels and when all are properly implemented they reduce movement about 80% on our 33' rig. Adding scissor jacks just in front of wheels can help, in severe cases JT Strong Arm stabilizers added to jack stands will further eliminate movement. Thus far we are happy with what is working currently for us.

The Bigger Blocks, the less Bounce

My TT - Love & Hate relationship | Good Sam Community

32 Replies

lawrosa
Explorer
Aug 06, 2014
Ok Ill add more links and vids if anyone cares.

I guess there are some that may try to lift opposite corners and do not understand how to stabilize/level.. Possibly no all are competent.

Like I said I only use the jacks for front to back level/stabilize and the jacks are placed evenly against the frame. Not one higher then the other trying to compensate for side to side.

Side to side I put blocks down and pull the low side of trailer wheels up on the blocks..

Here is another company. Article, instructions, pic...etc

From RV.net.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23075623.cfm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2GIAU-0UqM

http://www.riecotitan.com/products/groundcontrol.php#base

http://www.riecotitan.com/flyers/GROUNDCONTROLInst.pdf
2112
Explorer II
Aug 06, 2014
Firstly, you can't compare a TT frame to a bridge. The span and trusses of a bridge are designed with a HUGE margin of safety. The TT frame is designed to be as light as possible and still be functional.

Secondly, the video you provided 100% condredicts your techique. Your technque is backwards. The auto leveler adjust the front landing jacks to LEVEL front to back before any other pads come in contact with the ground. At no time are any of the pads placing a large moment load on either frame beam. The load is being adjusted evenly throughout the whole process. Your technique applies a large moment on the frame when you are raising the front jack after the rear is blocked up.

I didn't want to get into a pi$$ing contest with anyone. My post was to point out to a newbie with a long 33'+ trailer that this is not the way to either level or stabilize a long TT. They may try it and wonder why their new TT is swaying uncontrollably on the way home.
lawrosa
Explorer
Aug 06, 2014
Doing as you say definantly won't help it, and will make it worse. My main concern would not necessarily be a permanant bend in the frame. But rather the damage that more than designed temporary flex could impart.

OK.. Im just being logical is all.

For example. A 6 point leveling system as show here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAKrSWSRsQo#t=236

Is this any different than my 4 point leveling system on my 24 ft TT?

As you know in the vid all jacks are attached to the frame. And If I took that 5th wheel in the vid and parked it on un level ground the jacks would lift one side of the frame over the other. Front to back, side to side or whatever.

So in summary, if I install the above system to my travel trailer, I assume my frame will bend from what is being suggested? It would be assumed that the manufacturer of that system would have oodles of warranty claims against them for bent frames.

Here are the installation instructions for the 4 and 6 point system as shown in the vid...

http://equalizersystems.com/images/shared/uploads/files/TRAILER%20Auto-Level%20Installation-%20Troubleshooting-%20Warranty%20Guide%203-2012.pdf

Hopefully with the above info members here can see a better point of view on the subject..
Huntindog
Explorer
Aug 06, 2014
lawrosa wrote:
2112 wrote:
lawrosa wrote:

I lower the front of the TT as low as it can go then place two jacks on the rear frame. Then I lift the front up to just above level then place two on the front frame. Then lower.. All four corners are now fully supported...

This is the easiest way to bend a LONG frame. You may get away with it on a short trailer.

Can you link any documentation that a travel trailer frame will bend that way?

Your comments seem absurd IMO as well as others that posted the same comments..

And as I stated longer trailers should use two more at the center.

Again this process does not lift the wheels off the ground. If the frame did flex you are still supported by the axles anyway.....

Do you know how bridges are built???? Steel is made to flex... Show me a TT with a bent frame from this process...

Possibly someone from a TT sales dept told you this and it was taken for gospel???

IDK all my opinion is all....
It is not an area that I want to be a beta tester on. But frame bounce is so well known, that it existence is pretty much irrefutable. Doing as you say definantly won't help it, and will make it worse. My main concern would not necessarily be a permanant bend in the frame. But rather the damage that more than designed temporary flex could impart.
As I said previously... Convincing you is likely a lost cause. But letting others know the risk of doing as you recommend might not be.
Did you know that TT frames are designed to support most of the weight by the wheels? In fact most if not all manufacturers camber the frame to counter act the frame flex. It is done with the wieght being supported by the wheels as the design... Doing as you say would reverse this... It simply can't be a good idea.
lawrosa
Explorer
Aug 06, 2014
2112 wrote:
lawrosa wrote:

I lower the front of the TT as low as it can go then place two jacks on the rear frame. Then I lift the front up to just above level then place two on the front frame. Then lower.. All four corners are now fully supported...

This is the easiest way to bend a LONG frame. You may get away with it on a short trailer.

Can you link any documentation that a travel trailer frame will bend that way?

Your comments seem absurd IMO as well as others that posted the same comments..

And as I stated longer trailers should use two more at the center.

Again this process does not lift the wheels off the ground. If the frame did flex you are still supported by the axles anyway.....

Do you know how bridges are built???? Steel is made to flex... Show me a TT with a bent frame from this process...

Possibly someone from a TT sales dept told you this and it was taken for gospel???

IDK all my opinion is all....
2112
Explorer II
Aug 05, 2014
lawrosa wrote:

I lower the front of the TT as low as it can go then place two jacks on the rear frame. Then I lift the front up to just above level then place two on the front frame. Then lower.. All four corners are now fully supported...

This is the easiest way to bend a LONG frame. You may get away with it on a short trailer.
Ron3rd
Explorer III
Aug 05, 2014
Keith Haw wrote:
TWolf wrote:
I also found out this week after owning the trailer for 2 years that you are not supposed to fill your fresh tank with water when the stabilizer jacks are down. One of mine bent and the dealer claims that is why.

That's wild! Never heard that one before. Think I'd be finding a different dealer to work with.

Keith

Never heard that either, I've filled the tank with my old trailer and my new Rockwood Windjammer with the stabs down many time.
Huntindog
Explorer
Aug 05, 2014
TWolf wrote:
With my POS Rockwood from Forest River I found that if I don't use blocks under my stabilizer jacks and run them all the way down, I have less movement. With the blocks that measure about 12" high, I had more movement. When I get it back from repair again, I will try some of all of your suggestions unless I get a rid of first. I also found out this week after owning the trailer for 2 years that you are not supposed to fill your fresh tank with water when the stabilizer jacks are down. One of mine bent and the dealer claims that is why. I will post more on another tread.
I've been doing it since I bought it new. No issues.
Keith_Haw
Explorer
Aug 05, 2014
TWolf wrote:
I also found out this week after owning the trailer for 2 years that you are not supposed to fill your fresh tank with water when the stabilizer jacks are down. One of mine bent and the dealer claims that is why.

That's wild! Never heard that one before. Think I'd be finding a different dealer to work with.

Keith
TWolf
Explorer
Aug 05, 2014
With my POS Rockwood from Forest River I found that if I don't use blocks under my stabilizer jacks and run them all the way down, I have less movement. With the blocks that measure about 12" high, I had more movement. When I get it back from repair again, I will try some of all of your suggestions unless I get a rid of first. I also found out this week after owning the trailer for 2 years that you are not supposed to fill your fresh tank with water when the stabilizer jacks are down. One of mine bent and the dealer claims that is why. I will post more on another tread.