Awhile back I bought my first travel trailer. A 98 prowler 24lz. I knew nothing about RV's at the time and made some mistakes. The biggest was that the roof was completely shot when I got it. Almost all of the white chalking has worn off leaving only black rubber over 95% of the roof. The front and rear seams were pulling away from the edges. I tried to repair both seams as best I could using staples and eternabond. The rear seam is looking pretty good but the front seam is not so much. The rubber has actually lifted up from the wood under neath so there are some bubbles and just loose rubber around the seam. I bought Liquid roof to try and coat it but i'm worried about the loose rubber. I feel like having a flexible bubbly spot is not goin to be good. Whats my best option, should I just try and staple the bubbles down before I coat it? Should I cut it back and try and spray adhesive in there before I coat it?The other problem is that i've found out this liquid roof coating is going to be very difficult for me to install myself. I don't have a place to do the install, i'd have to do it out in the boondocks while camping. Also my roof isn't supposed to be walked on so spreading the liquid roof around would be very difficult having to move a ladder every few feet. I was planning to have a local RV shop where its stored do the install but they are going to charge more than $800 just for the install. So the price of the liquid roof, plus primer, plus install is going to be $1000-$1500. For that cost could I get some other RV shop to do it right and actually replace my whole roof?The one saving factor I have is that I keep the RV stored in Bishop California in the eastern sierra. The annual rainfall is less than 6" there. So hopefully even if the roof isn't perfect with low rainfall not to much damage will be done. Live and learn I guess. I knew I was going to make mistakes when buying my first trailer. Just not sure how to proceed from here to try and extend the roof life as best I can. Hoping someone can offer advice.

I wouldn't worry too much about bubbles in the old membrane. They're rather common even on brand new TT's (mostly because of poor workmanship) but don't end up causing any problems. In fact mine was that way from new and it's still fine and has never leaked.Replacing a whole membrane type roof runs around $120 a linear foot around here.

ScottG wrote:I wouldn't worry too much about bubbles in the old membrane. They're rather common even on brand new TT's (mostly because of poor workmanship) but don't end up causing any problems. In fact mine was that way from new and it's still fine and has never leaked.Replacing a whole membrane type roof runs around $120 a linear foot around here.Really? I dunno if I'm describing it correctly. Its wavy and loose like a bubble. But if you were to peal off that eternabond right on the seam you'd be able to peel the roof back probably 6 inches where its come loose from the wood. I wish i'd have taken a video or pictures when I was up there last. I was just worried that if it was flexible like that the liquid epdm coating wouldn't do well over it. But maybe i'm just worrying to much.

I have seen a lot of new trailers with loose membranes. You can use a small mop to spread the liquid roof, it helps with the reach you need.

Jonnygsx wrote:ScottG wrote:I wouldn't worry too much about bubbles in the old membrane. They're rather common even on brand new TT's (mostly because of poor workmanship) but don't end up causing any problems. In fact mine was that way from new and it's still fine and has never leaked.Replacing a whole membrane type roof runs around $120 a linear foot around here.Really? I dunno if I'm describing it correctly. Its wavy and loose like a bubble. But if you were to peal off that eternabond right on the seam you'd be able to peel the roof back probably 6 inches where its come loose from the wood. I wish i'd have taken a video or pictures when I was up there last. I was just worried that if it was flexible like that the liquid epdm coating wouldn't do well over it. But maybe i'm just worrying to much.6" is a pretty big void but yea, they build them that way.When I first bought my TT I discovered the bubbles and loose area's next to the edge (like the material just doesn't want to bend around a sharp corner). My dealer said it was normal but I doubted him.So I called around to dealers of other brands of trailers and they all told me the same thing.I'm not sure how a liquid coating would work over those area's though - I just don't have any experience with that.Can you post a pic? I'm sure we'd all like to see it (we're strange that way..).

ScottG wrote:Jonnygsx wrote:ScottG wrote:I wouldn't worry too much about bubbles in the old membrane. They're rather common even on brand new TT's (mostly because of poor workmanship) but don't end up causing any problems. In fact mine was that way from new and it's still fine and has never leaked.Replacing a whole membrane type roof runs around $120 a linear foot around here.Really? I dunno if I'm describing it correctly. Its wavy and loose like a bubble. But if you were to peal off that eternabond right on the seam you'd be able to peel the roof back probably 6 inches where its come loose from the wood. I wish i'd have taken a video or pictures when I was up there last. I was just worried that if it was flexible like that the liquid epdm coating wouldn't do well over it. But maybe i'm just worrying to much.6" is a pretty big void but yea, they build them that way.When I first bought my TT I discovered the bubbles and loose area's next to the edge (like the material just doesn't want to bend around a sharp corner). My dealer said it was normal but I doubted him.So I called around to dealers of other brands of trailers and they all told me the same thing.I'm not sure how a liquid coating would work over those area's though - I just don't have any experience with that.Can you post a pic? I'm sure we'd all like to see it (we're strange that way..).These are some older pics. But its all I have. Since these pics were taken I eternabonded both seams in the front and back. I should have sprayed some adhesive under the loose sections of roof before I did the front seam. But you can get the idea from these photos. Unfortunately I dont have a close up showing the wavy/bubbly/loose front seam. Here is a very high resolution photo of the entire roof. Here is me peeling back the rear seam. Here is a wider shot of the rear seam.

Need advice for a ruined roof | Good Sam Community

27 Replies

Jonnygsx
Explorer
Jan 22, 2015
Golden_HVAC wrote:
I spread this stuff on my roof - it is a 97 Bounder.

http://www.epdmcoatings.com/rv_roof_repair.html

I had already coated it a few years ago, and thought that at that time the roof was pretty much gone, and I should have done it a couple of years sooner! I think that you might be doing it to late, and might require all new roofing material. This includes removing the A/C, all roof vents, refrigerator vent, and starting fresh with replacement plywood where it is required, and contact cement over the roof, then apply the replacement material.

Click on the link above, they show how easy it is to apply the material. I actually put mine on at my storage facility, it is under cover, and went pretty well. The on site manager did not see me up there.

It has to be above 55F to cure, a problem in Portland OR night now, it has not reached 60F in a few weeks, and perhaps only for a few hours next week. So I am saving the touch ups for next month (I hope) by keeping my left over product in the freezer, hoping it will not cure in the meantime.

You ad a red catalyst to the base product, and it turns white once applied.

There is a video online, it looked really easy. I had applied other stuff before - in 2009. This is much easier, and smell is much less. It bonds to the roof very well. Basically I used a ceramic cup to scoop it out of the 5 gallon pail, and then spread it with a paint brush - the $1.25 kind made to be disposable. I also wore disposable coveralls and gloves rated for acetone, so they did not dissolve with the roof chemicals.

It took me about 8 gallons with a 30' long Bounder. I probably could have applied it a little thinner and got away with 5 gallons, but wanted a really thick application, so I will not need to repeat in 4 or 5 years. It should last 8-10 years? I don't know yet.

Good luck,

Fred.

Thanks this is the same stuff I bought plus I bought a primer that is supposed to help bond to the very deteriorated roof. One problem is that hte primer has to be done hours before you can put on the rest of the roof material. And like I mentioned I can't walk on the roof and i'd have to be moving a ladder all over. I'm just nervous of screwing it up. It was about $500 worth of material and shipping in the end.
Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Jan 22, 2015
I spread this stuff on my roof - it is a 97 Bounder.

http://www.epdmcoatings.com/rv_roof_repair.html

I had already coated it a few years ago, and thought that at that time the roof was pretty much gone, and I should have done it a couple of years sooner! I think that you might be doing it to late, and might require all new roofing material. This includes removing the A/C, all roof vents, refrigerator vent, and starting fresh with replacement plywood where it is required, and contact cement over the roof, then apply the replacement material.

Click on the link above, they show how easy it is to apply the material. I actually put mine on at my storage facility, it is under cover, and went pretty well. The on site manager did not see me up there.

It has to be above 55F to cure, a problem in Portland OR night now, it has not reached 60F in a few weeks, and perhaps only for a few hours next week. So I am saving the touch ups for next month (I hope) by keeping my left over product in the freezer, hoping it will not cure in the meantime.

You ad a red catalyst to the base product, and it turns white once applied.

There is a video online, it looked really easy. I had applied other stuff before - in 2009. This is much easier, and smell is much less. It bonds to the roof very well. Basically I used a ceramic cup to scoop it out of the 5 gallon pail, and then spread it with a paint brush - the $1.25 kind made to be disposable. I also wore disposable coveralls and gloves rated for acetone, so they did not dissolve with the roof chemicals.

It took me about 8 gallons with a 30' long Bounder. I probably could have applied it a little thinner and got away with 5 gallons, but wanted a really thick application, so I will not need to repeat in 4 or 5 years. It should last 8-10 years? I don't know yet.

Good luck,

Fred.
Jonnygsx
Explorer
Jan 22, 2015
ScottG wrote:
Jonnygsx wrote:
ScottG wrote:
I wouldn't worry too much about bubbles in the old membrane. They're rather common even on brand new TT's (mostly because of poor workmanship) but don't end up causing any problems. In fact mine was that way from new and it's still fine and has never leaked.
Replacing a whole membrane type roof runs around $120 a linear foot around here.

Really? I dunno if I'm describing it correctly. Its wavy and loose like a bubble. But if you were to peal off that eternabond right on the seam you'd be able to peel the roof back probably 6 inches where its come loose from the wood. I wish i'd have taken a video or pictures when I was up there last. I was just worried that if it was flexible like that the liquid epdm coating wouldn't do well over it. But maybe i'm just worrying to much.

6" is a pretty big void but yea, they build them that way.
When I first bought my TT I discovered the bubbles and loose area's next to the edge (like the material just doesn't want to bend around a sharp corner). My dealer said it was normal but I doubted him.
So I called around to dealers of other brands of trailers and they all told me the same thing.
I'm not sure how a liquid coating would work over those area's though - I just don't have any experience with that.
Can you post a pic? I'm sure we'd all like to see it (we're strange that way..).

These are some older pics. But its all I have. Since these pics were taken I eternabonded both seams in the front and back. I should have sprayed some adhesive under the loose sections of roof before I did the front seam. But you can get the idea from these photos. Unfortunately I dont have a close up showing the wavy/bubbly/loose front seam.

Here is a very high resolution photo of the entire roof.

Here is me peeling back the rear seam.

Here is a wider shot of the rear seam.
ScottG
Nomad
Jan 22, 2015
Jonnygsx wrote:
ScottG wrote:
I wouldn't worry too much about bubbles in the old membrane. They're rather common even on brand new TT's (mostly because of poor workmanship) but don't end up causing any problems. In fact mine was that way from new and it's still fine and has never leaked.
Replacing a whole membrane type roof runs around $120 a linear foot around here.

Really? I dunno if I'm describing it correctly. Its wavy and loose like a bubble. But if you were to peal off that eternabond right on the seam you'd be able to peel the roof back probably 6 inches where its come loose from the wood. I wish i'd have taken a video or pictures when I was up there last. I was just worried that if it was flexible like that the liquid epdm coating wouldn't do well over it. But maybe i'm just worrying to much.

6" is a pretty big void but yea, they build them that way.
When I first bought my TT I discovered the bubbles and loose area's next to the edge (like the material just doesn't want to bend around a sharp corner). My dealer said it was normal but I doubted him.
So I called around to dealers of other brands of trailers and they all told me the same thing.
I'm not sure how a liquid coating would work over those area's though - I just don't have any experience with that.
Can you post a pic? I'm sure we'd all like to see it (we're strange that way..).
copeland343
Explorer
Jan 22, 2015
I have seen a lot of new trailers with loose membranes. You can use a small mop to spread the liquid roof, it helps with the reach you need.
Jonnygsx
Explorer
Jan 22, 2015
ScottG wrote:
I wouldn't worry too much about bubbles in the old membrane. They're rather common even on brand new TT's (mostly because of poor workmanship) but don't end up causing any problems. In fact mine was that way from new and it's still fine and has never leaked.
Replacing a whole membrane type roof runs around $120 a linear foot around here.

Really? I dunno if I'm describing it correctly. Its wavy and loose like a bubble. But if you were to peal off that eternabond right on the seam you'd be able to peel the roof back probably 6 inches where its come loose from the wood. I wish i'd have taken a video or pictures when I was up there last. I was just worried that if it was flexible like that the liquid epdm coating wouldn't do well over it. But maybe i'm just worrying to much.
ScottG
Nomad
Jan 22, 2015
I wouldn't worry too much about bubbles in the old membrane. They're rather common even on brand new TT's (mostly because of poor workmanship) but don't end up causing any problems. In fact mine was that way from new and it's still fine and has never leaked.
Replacing a whole membrane type roof runs around $120 a linear foot around here.

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Need advice for a ruined roof

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