Hey all, I apologize if this isn't in the right forum. Not really sure where to put the question. Sort of surprises me there isn't a repair only forum? So I finally purchased my first TT. Didn't know it had water damage so now I have to fix it. Damage is in back corners of TT. I more need info on best materials to use. It is a 2003 Coachman Cascade 26' bunkhouse. Aluminum siding with rubber roof. Fixing the wood rot is actually the least of my concerns. I'm more concerned with sealing it back up while putting it back together. My plan is the following....1. Use 100% butyl tape on corner moldings 2. Use stainless screws to put the moldings back on3. Use stainless or aluminum staples for the siding(do they make aluminum staples?)4. Use decking screws for all wood repairs. Should I also caulk around the moldings after fastened with the butyl tape? If so what type of caulk? I need to seal a bunch of the clearance/marker lights also. Can I use the butyl tape for this? Would appreciate any advice. Am I headed in the right direction?Thanks,Ron

It all sounds good. I use butyl tape whenever possible, followed by caulk. Don't use silicone. Lots of folks here use Proflex or similar. Do remove all traces of silicone before reassembly or nothing will stick.Good luck.

The best= Eternabond tapes, butyl is OK under trim where the butyl is held in compression. Geocel Tripolymer caulks and sealants are what I use. Proflex RV is one of those caulks. Use this same stuff for your marker lights and around trim pieces. The staples holding my siding are galvanized steel, I bet yours are too. For framing, I glued all the framing with liquid nails and then screwed/nailed it all together. You will discover the sequence and pattern of fastening and building along the way. Most trailers have the wall framing attached through the floor sheathing. The floor sheathing is usually the first to go on when mfg., I even had carpet and vinyl under the wall sill plates.Good luck and be thorough. You only need to do this once and when sealed back up, it will be better than new. Add good insulation (extruded polystyrene) into the wall cavities if you can. Good luck.

Getting into it a little bit now. Of course I'm finding a bit more damage than anticipated. Wood at top corner of one side of roof needs to be fixed. Is it possible to peel back the roof and re-seal with success? I will have to peel back about 15" or so from the corner. I will also need to partially remove the gutter. Can this be done and resealed without having to take down the whole gutter? I'm trying to conquer this without taking any of the siding off the sides of the trailer.What is the best way to get off the old sealant on the rubber roof? It seems to be some type of putty and caulk. It is not coming off too easy as I am being very careful not to tear the rubber roof.Oh yeah I also need to get some of that black tarp-like stuff they use on the bottom of the trailers. That stuff have a name?Thanks,Ron

You may need to remove long lengths of trim or some siding to repair damaged frame work. It's not a bad thing, it's just another area that you can improve (at least that's what I told myself). I have an aluminum roof that had roofing tar, silicone caulk, acrylic caulk, spray sealers, and some of the original mortite type of tape (now called butyl tape). I used a variety of mechanical removal tools like scrapers, putty knives, etc. I also used power tools like grinders with a wire brush. When I had everything scraped, using a heat gun and then wire brushed, I used solvents to remove the residue. You'll have to be careful with a rubber roof, don't use any petroleum chemicals. 3M makes an excellent caulk remover that should dissolve most caulks and sealants. The trick is to slather it on, cover with plastic wrap, and give it 12 hrs. to work.

rferoni wrote:Hey all, I apologize if this isn't in the right forum. Not really sure where to put the question. Sort of surprises me there isn't a repair only forum? Snip... Would appreciate any advice. Am I headed in the right direction?Thanks,RonRon, Our repair forum is called Tech Issues :)We also have a forum called Do It Yourself but that one is supposed to be for upgrades and modification discussions and not for repair type threads.Barney

need water damage repair guidance on first TT..

westend
Explorer
Aug 10, 2014
You may need to remove long lengths of trim or some siding to repair damaged frame work. It's not a bad thing, it's just another area that you can improve (at least that's what I told myself).

I have an aluminum roof that had roofing tar, silicone caulk, acrylic caulk, spray sealers, and some of the original mortite type of tape (now called butyl tape). I used a variety of mechanical removal tools like scrapers, putty knives, etc. I also used power tools like grinders with a wire brush. When I had everything scraped, using a heat gun and then wire brushed, I used solvents to remove the residue. You'll have to be careful with a rubber roof, don't use any petroleum chemicals. 3M makes an excellent caulk remover that should dissolve most caulks and sealants. The trick is to slather it on, cover with plastic wrap, and give it 12 hrs. to work.
rferoni
Explorer
Aug 10, 2014
Getting into it a little bit now. Of course I'm finding a bit more damage than anticipated.

Wood at top corner of one side of roof needs to be fixed. Is it possible to peel back the roof and re-seal with success? I will have to peel back about 15" or so from the corner. I will also need to partially remove the gutter. Can this be done and resealed without having to take down the whole gutter? I'm trying to conquer this without taking any of the siding off the sides of the trailer.

What is the best way to get off the old sealant on the rubber roof? It seems to be some type of putty and caulk. It is not coming off too easy as I am being very careful not to tear the rubber roof.

Oh yeah I also need to get some of that black tarp-like stuff they use on the bottom of the trailers. That stuff have a name?

Thanks,
Ron
westend
Explorer
Aug 09, 2014
The best= Eternabond tapes, butyl is OK under trim where the butyl is held in compression. Geocel Tripolymer caulks and sealants are what I use. Proflex RV is one of those caulks. Use this same stuff for your marker lights and around trim pieces.

The staples holding my siding are galvanized steel, I bet yours are too. For framing, I glued all the framing with liquid nails and then screwed/nailed it all together. You will discover the sequence and pattern of fastening and building along the way. Most trailers have the wall framing attached through the floor sheathing. The floor sheathing is usually the first to go on when mfg., I even had carpet and vinyl under the wall sill plates.

Good luck and be thorough. You only need to do this once and when sealed back up, it will be better than new. Add good insulation (extruded polystyrene) into the wall cavities if you can.

Good luck.
GrandpaKip
Explorer II
Aug 09, 2014
It all sounds good. I use butyl tape whenever possible, followed by caulk. Don't use silicone. Lots of folks here use Proflex or similar. Do remove all traces of silicone before reassembly or nothing will stick.
Good luck.

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need water damage repair guidance on first TT..

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