New Travel Trailer with Residential Refrig.
We were out looking at some new travel trailers tonight and several had 10.7 cu residential refrigerators. I was hoping some of you could provide feedback as to how they like this set up while stayin...
Forum Discussion
Somewhere on the refrigerator there has to be a tag that tells amps at 120 V. Find that, and multiply that number by 10, because you will pulling from a 12V system. That will be the amp load on your batteries. Now that will be the MAXIMUM load that occurs only briefly when the compressor starts. Routine running is more likely to be 2-3 amps for a fridge that size.
Assume a 50% duty cycle, so the refrigerator is running 50% of the time. (It could be more in really hot weather or when you are opening the door a lot.) So every 24 hours your refrigerator will actually be running 12 hours.
Say it's normal load is 2.5 amps at 120V, it will pull 25 amps to get the same power from your 12V battery. At a 50% duty cycle, that is 25 amps x 12 hours/day = 300 amp-hours from your battery in 24 hours.
The best way to find out its true amp draw is to put a kill-a-watt meter on it, but start with an estimate.
Assume a 50% duty cycle, so the refrigerator is running 50% of the time. (It could be more in really hot weather or when you are opening the door a lot.) So every 24 hours your refrigerator will actually be running 12 hours.
Say it's normal load is 2.5 amps at 120V, it will pull 25 amps to get the same power from your 12V battery. At a 50% duty cycle, that is 25 amps x 12 hours/day = 300 amp-hours from your battery in 24 hours.
The best way to find out its true amp draw is to put a kill-a-watt meter on it, but start with an estimate.
