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pk1023's avatar
pk1023
Explorer
Sep 07, 2013

Nissan Quest Brake Controller issue saga continues

Hey all,

Well, a Saturday basically wasted and no progress. I have the 2012 Nissan Quest Minivan and a Nomad 173 trailer with a Quest brake controller.

It's always had this horrible chunck whenever you apply the brakes with the trailer on. I've talked to the dealer, but they've so far been too busy to help much. I can't leave the van with them because my wife drives it day to day and they're always too busy on Saturdays to wait on it. Plus it's 30 mile drive.

I made it up there today and they did help a bit. We noticed that my van had a silly dealer installed 'feature' called PULSE. This pulse thing flickers the back top tail light for 5 seconds everytime you brake.

We decided THAT was the cause of the issue. That my controller was going on and off quickly with the PULSE single because they tapped into the overhead light for the stop light wire on the controller.

Long story short, my Nissan dealer was happy to disconnect the PULSE feature and did it today. Picked it up after lunch and took it to the trailer.

At first I thought it was fixed. No clunk from the trailer on braking. But I knew from experience it often took time to show up. I did a test loop around Kilpsch music center in Noblesville, IN where I store it and well after 10 minute, CLUNK CLUNK it was back.

Tried all the different settings on the controller with no luck. All I do know is it get WORSE with time. The longer I drive, the more it clunks on braking.

If I slow down and brake alot at slow speeds, the clunk goes away. But as soon as I drive a mile or so, clunk clunk.

I know I know, take it to the dealer, have them fix it. But, Anderson is a long ways away and frankely it's expensive to drive there.

I keep thinking about just replacing the Quest controller with a Tekonsha, but if I do that and it still clunks I am out 124 bucks with no solution. Plus it's hardwired in with splices that I will have to cut. No harness on a VAN! :)

Any ideas? Thanks everyone.
  • Toss it, not ALL accelerometer based controllers work "perfectly"..

    In fact instead of wasting more money on a P2/P3 perhaps you should consider a REAL brake controller called Directlink which interfaces DIRECTLY with your vehicles computer via the OBDII diagnostics port.

    Directlink is a fully proportional controller which does not depend on accelerometers nor other trickery, smoke and mirrors or black magic. Instead it reads the diagnostic port data which includes braking info from the vehicle and outputs a proportional brake voltage. Basically it will be as if you have a vehicle which has a IBC (Integrated Brake Control) and will work with your ABS and towing stability control systems (if equipped).

    At $325 it IS expensive but it should bypass all those weird problems you are having once and for all..

    You can find details on it HERE

    "No longer worry about the hassle of finding the right tee or bleeding the tow vehicle's brakes. The DirecLink does not have to tee into the tow vehicle's master cylinder, just plug straight into the tow vehicle's OBII sensor (diagram below). The DirecLink will automatically search for that vehicles optimized configuration and will provide an algorithium that provides the superior braking every seasoned tower has come to expect.

    Works with 1997 to Present Ford, GM, and Chrysler Trucks, Vans, and SUVs. 2008 to Present Nissan and Toyota Trucks, Vans, and SUVs."

    While I have not tried the Directlink controller I have in several of my vehicles a Jordan Ultimata 2020 which uses a steel cable that attached to the brake pedal. Unfortunately Jordan was bought out and put out of business.

    I now have a 2013 F250 with IBC, and am very pleased with it, it feels and works as smooth as my Jordans.

    I think you will find the Directlink a vast upgrade over any accelerometer type controllers..