NL owners and others, will it fit?

Don't see why it wouldn't. It's a long bed. I have a 2003 10-2 NL and a 2016 long bed Chevy. It fits although a little tight.

I believe so as the DRW bed didn't change until 2013. That change only re-enforced the rear of the bed rail by angling it slightly, about 1" in on each side. This can would be the only dimension that you need to double check. My father's 1999 Bigfoot still cleared though even with it's wider area behind the wheel wells. The only other possible issue could be the bed rail height if yours is new enough to have the plastic cap, but again, something I don't think they did until 2013. This one is easy to fix with a 3/4" platform under the camper.

I think the only possible issue would be your having to raise the TC about 1-1/2" so the back doors will clear the TC overhang. The TC your considering may not have that problem.

I have a 2004 3500 Dodge Ram long bed quad cab with a 1988 Bigfoot. My Bigfoot has no basement. I use two layers of 3/4" Horse Stall Mat. One was not enough. On flat ground no problem, on a curb the top of the door would not clear. This photo is with the two layers of 3/4" Horse Stall Mats.

Reddog1 wrote:
I think the only possible issue would be your having to raise the TC about 1-1/2" so the back doors will clear the TC overhang. The TC your considering may not have that problem.

I have a 2004 3500 Dodge Ram long bed quad cab with a 1988 Bigfoot. My Bigfoot has no basement. I use two layers of 3/4" Horse Stall Mat. One was not enough. On flat ground no problem, on a curb the top of the door would not clear. This photo is with the two layers of 3/4" Horse Stall Mats.

Nice looking rig. Do you not use the center caps on your wheels? I have thought about doing the opposite and just running the center caps so it is easier to check pressure.

I think two sets of horse stall mats would add a lot of extra weight.

zcookiemonstar, thanks for the compliment.

I do not run the center caps, I prefer to have my nuts showing. Actually I removed the wheel liners since that photo and painted my wheels black. I did not like the black, and two days ago painted the wheels a dark metallic burnt copper with clear coat. I left the hubs and lug nuts black. It plan on using beauty rings only, for contrast and to hide balance weights. Makes airing tires easier and checking lug nut torque. And I do like the astics. I am not a chrome fan.

The two Horse Mats do add a lot of weight. There are no free rides, to raise the TC 1-1/2", it will require adding weight. The only real exception is using foam sheets. I tried and did not like the foam. With my TC and truck, the weight would pass the scrutiny of the Weight Police. There is a thread running where I have given some weight info on stall mats. It is available in different thicknesses.

I have essentially the same setup as Reddog. But to get the rear doors to clear the camper (and to have more clearance over the cab for those times when I go boonyhopping) I have my camper sitting on a 3" spacer I built. Yes, the spacer is heavy - but the truck really doesn't seem to care.

I would contact Keith at Northern Lite and ask him. They've always been responsive and helpful when I've had a question. He recommended a 1" sheet of plywood with a rubber bed mat on top of that for my setup, although it's different than yours.

You should be fine, you can see in my signature what I am running. I do have a rubber bed mat no need to raise my NL I have a basement. You dodge doesn't have the "extra curve" in the back of your bed like GM's do, one of the reasons I don't have a GM, presently.

I have the 2004 NL and a 2008 dodge crew cab long box, camper fit's just fine. It's tight at the rear but has about 3/8 inch clear each side and I use 2 inch high density foam under it to clear the cab roof.

I use a 4x8 sheet of 2” rigid pink foam insulation to raise my camper, it works great and weighs almost nothing.