No DC in 1999 Coleman Bayside

can relay stick closed? It takes 120v to close and route converter 12v out, with no 120v, ought to be open and allow 12v batt out. (or do I have this backward!!!)

different model for reference

Just keep in mind the 12VDC from the battery and the DC output of the converter when it is on both feed the same spot on your 12VDC Power Distribution Panel where all of your 12VDC fuses are. This is how the basic 12VDC items in your trailer are run from either the shore power connection or straight off the battery when 120VAC is not available.

If only the converter is providing this voltage when you have it ON them you have a disconnect between the 12VDc Power Distribution Panel and the Battery.
This disconnect also does not allow the battery to be charged up when you are on shore power as well...

This can be a blown in-line fuse, bad terminal connections, a battery disconnect switch, etc. Both the converter 12VDC and the battery 12VDC are suppose to connect to the ceiling lights in the trailer.

You should be able to trace down where the 12VDC coming from the battery is not making it through.

If you have ever hooked the battery up in reverse polarity even for a second you will blow two fuses called REVERSE POLARITY which are located on your 12VDC Power distribution Panel.. These are two fuses off to themself... There is also an IN-LINE close to the battery terminal that will blow as well. You need to physical find these three items and check they are good. You also need to locate the sink fold-over push button switch and make sure it gets depressed when you are setup. Its purpose is to not allow the hot ceiling lights to ever be on when you are buttoned up for travel.

Bear with all of us all seemingly saying the same thing....

Roy Ken

You are right to purchase a replacement converter and the folks at Best Converter are the right folks to help you on that.

It sounds like you'll keep the replacement right there at the PUP, which is a good thing. It could be a loose solder joint and the warming/cooling of the days could be causing the intermittent functioning. Personally, I would rip and replace it as soon as I could. When things are dying, they generally don't do it for me during the daytime or at the beginning of a window of time that I could work on it. It's at night or right before I need it the most. I did one in the driveway at home but needed nothing more than some needle nose pliers and screw drivers.

The Magnetek is an older converter with really old electronic technology. If you do ever charge phones and computers even when plugged into 120v AC, your devices will like the cleaner power from the Parallax much better. The Parallax does recharge the battery but the documentation does not indicate that it is a "smart" three-stage charger, so I wouldn't just leave it plugged in all the time when in storage.

Thanks for all the replies - here is an update.
The converter model is a Magnetek 6700 series, model 6720
I have two 12V batteries connected in parallel.
All fuses are good - including the inline one near the battery.
All 12v outputs work when connected to my Yamaha 2000 generator (AC).
When the AC is connected, I measure 12V (+) out of the converter (going to the internal lights, etc. of the trailer)

On DC:
I measured 12.6Vdc in from the battery at the input point to the converter.

When the AC is off/disconnected, and I measure the 12Vdc in, there is 0V dc measured on the output of the converter. So I suspect there is a bad diode or some other circuit board component preventing the 12Vdc to pass through.

More info:
Magnetek has since gone out of business or is no longer available. Parallax makes a compatible model 6730D, which I bought from BestConverter . com (fast shipping and friendly service but NO schematic for Magnetek).

I brought this new converter to my trailer in the mountains (1999 Coleman Bayside) with the intention of replacing the Magnetek... I must have scared it - as now the 12V dc is functioning as expected... so I have a new converter in a box in my trailer... hoping the Magnetek will last the rest of the season so I can do the remove and install at home. I do wish I could locate a full schematic for the Magnetek 6720 as I figure I could locate and replace the failing component (if that is indeed the case - hard to trouble shoot when everything is working again.)

Ive had the same problem that I traced to a lose connection out side near my raised roof...
Good luck

Have you checked the plugs on the 12 volt wiring that goes up through the canvas by one of the lifter posts? Had mine come unplugged once and had no lights then, or do you not have any 12 volts anywhere? Popupportal has an owners manual listed for your year camper.

I'd suggest using a volt meter and measure the output of the converter.

It would help if you could provide some additional information about your specific set-up and what you've done to troubleshoot the situation. What kind and model of power converter is installed in the PUP? Does it have any kind of rocker/toggle switch on it with labels such as "Shore" or "Batt"?

Is it all 12v devices that do not function or is it only the lights? Does the furnace, water pump, LP gas detector, refrigerator on DC setting, etc all work or are all of them dead?

How did you determine the galley kill switch is fine, by the way? If the galley kill switch is fine, such as there is 12v DC power coming to it, and from it when the switch/circuit is closed, then the break is in the wiring after that.

Answers to these questions will narrow down the problem area.

And FYI, wiring schematics are very hard to come by. However, I do have images of the 2001-2002 Fleetwood Bayside wiring diagrams along with some additional supporting information. Send me a private message with your email and I will send them to you.

Do you have a battery?
Is the battery charged?
Is the battery connected correctly?
Is there a fuse or circuit breaker located near the battery?