Northern-Lite 8-11 & Solar?

It's never clear why posters are concerned about holes in the roof. There are already hundreds of holes and a few more properly sealed will not be a problem.

Ditto for raised panels which can reduce/eliminate rig shadows on the panels. Mine are 6" high and parallel to the roof front to back and a 4 degree slope side to side. In my case I have a vent under one and another partially covers a skylight. This can significantly reduce/eliminate roof restrictions.

And panels aren't going to bend etc with higher wind. Millions of panels are roof or solar farm mounted using the mfg holes and the frames don't bend. If the frames failed the mfg would not remain in business for long.

Eugarps wrote:
All,

I’ve been watching a YouTube channel about a full timing couple with an Arctic Fox 811 truck camper. They have solar, Li batteries and a 2,000w inverter. They claim they run their air conditioner on that system. Does that sound right?

Bill

Yes, it’s possible to run a typical 13.5k RV a/c on batteries. Odds are these folks have a smaller 10-11k a/c in their 811, which lowers current requirements. Have to provide an ample supply of current (lithium or large bank of wet cells) with the inverter mounted close to the batteries using the largest gauge cables possible. Regardless, it’s not practical ‘cause you can’t run the a/c long enough to be effective. Usually requires the use of a 2000+ watt, low-frequency inverter. Upside to a LF is very high surge current capability (needed to start the a/c). Downsides, they’re heavy, somewhat expensive, and have high, no load parasitic current. Folks have also had limited success using a standard PSW inverter (requires a quality unit with higher than average surge capability) along with a Micro Air Easy Start (lowers start current on the a/c).

Eugarps wrote:
SideHillSoup,

I’d love to know where that name came from. PM me, if you would. I don’t want to be guilty of drifting my own thread. :)

It looks to me that a solution could be to have a factory rack on your camper and mount the panels on it. I’d think, using say 160w panels I could get the 400w I’d like to have. That could solve the more-holes-in-the-roof issue. That would be four more holes plus but at least they’d be factory installed.

Just my $0.02 and worth about that.... ;)

Bill

I’m thinking and writing about the name.... it’s a long story, so put the coffee pot on... I will,pm you when it is done.
As for the roof racks..., good idea on less holes, however I would be now worried about wind picking up the panels / bending them...etc.... however you could possibly mount aluminum angle material for structural support and strength.
PM coming on name ...
Soup.

SideHillSoup,

I’d love to know where that name came from. PM me, if you would. I don’t want to be guilty of drifting my own thread. :)

It looks to me that a solution could be to have a factory rack on your camper and mount the panels on it. I’d think, using say 160w panels I could get the 400w I’d like to have. That could solve the more-holes-in-the-roof issue. That would be four more holes plus but at least they’d be factory installed.

Just my $0.02 and worth about that.... ;)

Bill

We have a 2018, NL 8-11 that came equipped with one 100 watt panel, and two 6 volt batteries. We added a second 100 watt panel on the opposite side of the factory installed panel this last spring. I have seen people with NL campers add a lot of panels on the roof, but for the life of me I can’t figure out way, all I see is more holes in the roof.
We have used our 100 factory installed panel with my portable 70 panel on a 2 month trip to AZ two winters ago. . We watched statilite TV with a receiver just about every night, charged out Ipad, cell phone and laptop, we operated the camper with all it’s ‘stuff’ no issues. After that winter in the camper down south we decided to install a second 100 panel,on the roof.
I do carry a 2000 watt Yamaha Generator for Big power draw items, however I never used it to charge the batteries besides the few times I had it running to run the toaster or instapot.

Yuma with the two portable 35 watt panels on the ground, which I plugged into the 100 watt system that came with the camper.

All,

I’ve been watching a YouTube channel about a full timing couple with an Arctic Fox 811 truck camper. They have solar, Li batteries and a 2,000w inverter. They claim they run their air conditioner on that system. Does that sound right?

Bill

Silver,

That’s a great idea but I’m thinking of going sans-generator. If I do that, the existing generator box would be available but I’d have to do the math on weight and balance. With the newer, lighter batteries, maybe it would work.

Thanks!

Bill

Bill:

...you may want to consider lining up batteries foreword of the wheel wells (maybe 2 or 3 per side) ? This would work if the Bigfoot's tub wall shape is vertical up to camper wings.

Pad 5 sides the batteries with high density foam; use a custom density foam under the batteries to account for bed bounce/shock.

A long bed truck would afford more foreword-of-wheel-well room to line batteries up.

The trick is getting all the dimensions correct and account for foam (foam would have a dual purpose: 1) shock absorbency; 2) insulation ). And, building a set of quick connect/disconnect battery cable umbilicals.

The only concern I would address would be "camper tub pivot". But this could be kept in check with camper tub guides up close to the truck's bulkhead....

*locating the batteries low to the ground would lower the rig's center of gravity, and would put more weight on the truck's front axle, better axle-to-axle weight distribution

TCINTN,

That sounds like it could work. With 120w + panels, I’d be at 500w. Now to find space for batteries to match. The rest of the components can be tucked in someplace.

BTW, I really like that motto. It worked in the furnace and at Dunkirk.

Best,

Bill

Put two in front of AC and one on opposite side of the factory installed